The Menswear in Asteroid City (2023)

Note: The following was written before the SAG-AFTRA strike with the podcast being recorded the day after (July 15). Spencer, MJ, and I stand with the strikers and support the people whose labor makes movies happen. Without them, we would not have the movies and tv shows that we love to watch and talk about. For more information on the strike, please visit the official site. This post may be taken down if contacted by SAG-AFTRA.

If The French Dispatch and its vaguely 1960s sartorial glory was for me, then Asteroid City is for Spendy. The latest WA film is set in the 1955s and showcases milsurp, mid-century sportswear, and a dash of western wear. We’re always hard-pressed to find good, character-intentional costuming outside of watching older films, so we are quite grateful to Wes and his team for the efforts in that arena.

The film is interesting as its framed as a TV presentation of an in-universe fictional play (named Asteroid City). It gets quite meta, as you get to see both the Asteroid City (the play) characters as well as the actors (in-universe) who play them (in the play), who interact with the playwright and the play’s director during the aforementioned TV presentation sequences. It makes more sense when you see it (though you probably will have to see it a few times). I liked this framing device a lot! 

We obviously loved all the costuming in the film, but something about it felt different. While the costumes are just as charming as any other Wes Anderson work, I didn’t find them quirky. By this I mean that everyone fits in; none of the characters stand out too much or have main character energy. I’m of course referencing The Royal Tenenbaums or The Life Aquatic where the main characters’ attire is meant to stand out. In Asteroid City, the characters certainly dress in vibrant or interesting ways, but it’s all cohesive with not only the town, but the period and overall world.

I firmly believe that this is because the 1950s (and perhaps the early 1960s) was one of the last times we got truly interesting sportswear (casual wear). We had western shirts, big chinos, novelty prints, seersucker suits, white suits straw hats, and big shorts with socks. People still wear them today, but when everyone else is wearing them it feels normal. And that’s what I loved about the attire in Asteroid City. It all feels natural.

There is also a sense of sincerity or earnestness that comes with this attire. Obviously vintage is having (or has always had) a moment in fashion, especially western wear thanks to guys like Albert. While I don’t mind that, I’ve definitely noticed that a lot of it has a focus on sex appeal. This makes sense as the western looks people are going for are more Butch Cassidy than Hobie Doyle. I miss the silliness and bit of camp that comes from 1950s western wear (and sportswear). I doubt that Asteroid City will bring that back, but it’s nice to have that in the zeitgeist.

Anyway, Asteroid City is the subject of our latest bonus episode. You can listen to the first 15 minutes of that bonus pod below, but you’ll have to subscribe on Patreon to get the RSS feed of the full episode (as well as access to our Discord).

PODCAST

Augie Steenbeck is a combat photographer and dresses like it.
He’s got a belted bush jacket, chinos, and Indy-esque boots, but he is wearing a sport shirt underneath.

Cool pajamas!
Jones Hall (who plays Augie in the play) wears a navy crewneck, light slacks, navy socks, and white sneakers. Feels very 1950s casual for a creative.
He also wears a military uniform costume with sneakers during another scene.

Woodrow, like most characters in the film, also wears a sportshirt, but his is done up to the top (like his dad).
Note the horizontal bengal stripe and the shorter collar (which was a 1950s thing).
HIs actor gets to wear a gabardine suit.
Stanley Zak (Tom Hanks) has a great yellow sportshirt with cool embroidery.
Everyone’s doing the air tie.
The yellow top reminds me of Mr. Robinson.
The real star are is diagonal check golf pants. They look amazing.

Are we doing the tied sweater on the waist now?
Lots of pjs in this film!
Stanly Zak’s actor.
Three generations.
Liev Schreiber wears a seersucker suit, checked sportshirt (with a runaway collar) and a straw fedora.

This has Spencer written all over it.

Mr. Cho gets a cool midcentury aloha with the trademarked vertical arrangement of the florals.
His actor seems to be wearing a peacocat and a gab sportshirt.
However, it is his son Ricky that wins the best dressed award.
Gotta love the baby blues and whites together.

All of the kids look great!
Clifford (on the left) has a fantastic tennis look that has a sweater vest over a polo.

The kids’ actors are somberly dressed.
Check out those high waisted chinos and the short length of his varsity jacket!
The Military-Science attire is pretty fun with its red accents.
Knit polo on the general’s actor.

The Larkings representatives (Fisher Stevens and Bob Balaban) seem to be dressed like Harry Truman and FDR respectively.

Okay, maybe not, but their attire did seem familiar.
Scientists!
Families.
Mercedes Ford plays Midge Campbell.

Love her movie star look.

Some of the best vintage attire is worn by children.

Bryceland’s needs to stop making diver shirts and start making cowboy print shirts! I’m surprised we haven’t seen this yet.
Montana in double denim.
These are the only real western dressed characters in the film.
Black gab western shirts are the best.

Black western trousers with a cinch back? Hell yeah.

Quite a contrast!
The hotel manager is also very Spencer.
You can just make out the hint of a contrast cuff on his chinos.
Bill Murray’s cut character is positioned as the head of the Larkings foundation and wears a lovely western suit.
Blunted notch lapels, front pleats, and big patch pockets!
Americana.
A bit of a regular vintage look.

Schubert Green in a very fitted tee and side tab novelty trousers (with kissing pleats).

Enough about The Bear’s tee, we should talk about this one!

He adds a sweater and an OCBD for the coaching scene.
Salzberg Keitel is the most trad character.
He’s quite”Ethan”, especially with his use of sandals with a suit and tie.

Conrad Earp, playwright, in a cowboy print robe and pajamas.
Iconic.

Someone on MFA posted this! It’s amazing to see it in color.
So much good stuff in this shot.

Knit polo again!
What a fantastically costumed movie.

Don’t forget to support us on Patreon to get some extra content and access to our exclusive Discord. Oh and don’t forget, we do a podcast every two weeks!

Buh-bye!

EthanMWong | StyleandDirection

The Podcast is produced by MJ.

Big thank you to our top tier Patrons (the SaDCast Fanatics), Philip, Shane, Henrik, and Alexander.

8 comments

  1. Nick's avatar
    Nick · July 31, 2023

    The Wrangler jacket Montana is wearing is not from 1955. It’s from the 1960s. It is the same jacket as worn by Brad Pitt in Once Upon A Time In Hollywood, which was correct for the period. The 1955 Wrangler jacket had a pleat in the front on both sides of the zipper (similar to the pleats in the types 1 and 2 Levis jackets) that was held down by circular dots made of the same golden brown thread the jacket was sewn with. It also had elastic at the sides in the back which had replaced the buckles of the 1940s version. The jacket would only have had one chest pocket in 1955. (I have one from the early 1960s with two chest pockets.) So that was a faux pas on the part of the costume department.

    Like

    • Ethan's avatar
      Ethan M. Wong · July 31, 2023

      You’re right! We talk about this in the podcast. It definitely is from a later era.

      Like

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