This is a recap-ish of the latest podcast episode. You can listen to the episode below before or after you read. That’s because I tend to expand on topics from the pod as well as straight-up write about things that we did not discuss. The choice is yours in how you want to proceed!

The pertinent section is at  24:46 – 42:5.

In the latest podcast, MJ brought up a great topic: Transitional Attire when we go from Summer to Fall. It’s intentionally not about a specific month or time frame, as SoCalifornians may even get November or December days in the 70s or so, but about the actual climate.  In other words, we talked about what we wear in the days of Early Fall, where things do cool down, but it’s not consistently cold yet.

Much like Derek’s “Excited Series”, much of the conversation revolved around the items that we just haven’t really worn in a few months and were looking forward to breaking out. We all put away our linen jackets and tropical wool trousers (fine for LA winter, but they blow around too easily), and break out our sweaters, hoodies,  and beloved tweeds. 

MJ, in particular, was excited to wear his fleece with actual outfits, rather than just as an errand layer in the morning or evening (though there is a charm in doing that too, what some people call a “dog walking outfit). For Spencer, this meant leaning into his denim and leather jackets as well as the tweeds, but still keeping a light, open shirt underneath. In some cases, he’ll forgo a jacket and simply wear a light sweater over a chambray or do a turtleneck base layer; a proper jacket is still close by, but it’s worn only when the weather dips in the evening. There’s no need for a coat, just yet. 

I obviously took part in the discussion, particularly about my sweaters and tweeds, but the more we went on, the more I realized that this really was about more than just a list of items that we bring out of hibernation. 

It was clear that we viewed this transition period as not a time to jump into the full Fall/Winter Inspo that we obsess over, but about easing into it. After all, these are the early days of fall/winter are when you can layer up, but not too much. It is a unique window where we have a particular approach to making outfits, one that straddles the line between practicality, social convention, and some Cinematic Dressing. 

We viewed Early Fall as the window for a particular approach to outfits, where you want to stay warm but not too warm, all while honoring the earlier sunsets and the overall cool down.  Obviously, as Angelinos, we could wear most of our summer attire all year round without breaking a sweat (or being too cold). But as people who like to make our own Occasions, we think it’s nice to honor the passage of time and the slight change in weather, even if palm trees are ever-present on the horizon (at least for a few more years). It just makes us feel “normal”, to be connected to what’s happening out there in the world rather than simply making fits for social media.  

That’s when I started to have an epiphany. Early Fall isn’t just a weather-season subset (arbitrarily named), but an attitude. It’s an invitation for restraint, where we allow ourselves to embrace the changing season and the drop in temperature without going Full Send too quickly. It’s a mood that suggests things don’t have to be so intense, so #menswear all the time, presenting us with quite a challenge—one that I actually enjoy.

The resultant outfits end up being facets of “vintage casual”, casual-almost-rugged Ivy, and a bit of the heyday Drake’s look (2015-2019).  These genres are certainly Fall-coded, but in a way that’s less “done up” than wrapping your suit with a coat, hat, and gloves. And despite my predilection for wearing ties (and using them in intricate and layered combinations, no matter the season), I do enjoy those casual, less tie-forward genres. I did them a lot more when I was younger, particularly because I didn’t have the best suits, so naturally I kept my appreciation of those POV alive through separates and more casual combinations. 

Even if you don’t see it as often today (since my tailoring has been honed in), I do indeed enjoy wearing jeans and fatigues with an OCBD and crewneck on their own without the use of a sportcoat; I also have plenty of casual jackets that ache to be worn. These modes are still a part of what I love about menswear. I even have plenty of inspo saved up, even if I don’t always get compelled to do it (as my obsession still lies with Apparel Arts). The Early Fall attitude and look isn’t a half measure, but a prelude for the cacophony of Fall/Winter that will soon come as it gets colder. Again, restraint and rest are the themes of this season 

Perhaps it’s only natural that the time for these looks comes when life tends to slow down and we find ourselves staying in with friends and loved ones. Or perhaps is just nice to dress for ourselves and just enjoy the interlude.

Don’t get me wrong, I obviously believe that we can wear whatever we want, whenever we want, and as Southern California menswear enthusiasts, we are gluttons for punishment in how we make layered outfits that many would call superfluous. As soon as the temps go below 70, I could immediately don a tweed jacket, flannel trousers, sweater vest, big scarves, and overcoats. After all, it isn’t summer anymore! Why not just go right into it? This may come as a surprise to you, but that’s just not my practice. I actually do parse things out! 

As much as I love my tuxedo, or hell, any manner of jacket and tie fits, I don’t actually wear them all the time. I could wear a suit or brown checked jacket with a striped shirt and patterned tie every day if I wanted to, but I don’t. I have respites from those looks, reserving them not just for an Occasion but for when the mood aligns. It is not an arbitrary break due to fatigue or because of some weird fashion-edging/masochism, but because I know that I don’t only like suits and ties. I also like other outfits, such as the ones that feature gabardine shirts, merch tees, Gurkha shorts, or jeans. 

Granted, I know myself well enough to acknowledge that my problems with inspiration-compulsion naturally lead me to create/wear tie-outfits more often than tie-less ones. That’s why I believe it’s important to allow myself some restraint and give myself a chance to wear the rest of what the classic-vintage menswear menagerie has to offer. 

And in the case of Early Fall, this means that it’s an opportunity for me to get wear out of the things that I already own– and to let myself be a bit “dressed down”.. A big part of that is because most of the garments that I bring out during this time are indeed casual. 

I like Early Fall because it’s a welcome excuse to break out my non-sportcoat jackets, by which I mean my leathers, my chore coats, short jackets/truckers, and my jungle jackets. Even though these items can certainly be worn when it’s a bit warmer, I’ve always found them to be a little Fall-coded. Not as much as full-on Fall/Winter, mind you, as that period tends to emphatically lean more tailored in my mind (more on that next time), but in the sense that it’s easy, rugged, and largely utilitarian, which feels Early Fall. When the weather is too awkward for vibrant alohas or light tones in tailoring, it is time for these casual jackets to shine. Their inherent patina (as all of mine are old) reflects the muggy skies and browning leaves in a form of harmonious expression. 

I particularly like the use of a jungle jacket for Early Fall, as it functions as a true transitional piece between warm and colder weather. A leather jacket can still make you run hot here in SoCal. The jungle jacket is naturally well-suited for spring/summer, as it looks great with an open button-up or tee (I do this on occasion), but I tend to prefer to use it in the Fall. There’s just something pleasing about how the faded green cotton ripstop looks against a subdued fall palette. A jungle jacket is also light enough to replace a 4-season sportcoat (like a hopsack blazer or even a linen) or can be worn on top of one, depending on the weather. Again, it’s all about that ease, and a jungle jacket is quite easy. There’s a reason why it’s been a menswear darling for a long time!

This approach to using “alternatives” also applies to outerwear. As I said earlier, it would be quite tempting to immediately wear my big coats as soon as it gets “cold”, but Early Fall is about restraint. So, instead of my vintage balmacaan or DB overcoats, I tend to opt for my Barbour Gamefair, which is, funnily enough is the shortest and lightest piece of coat-esque outerwear I own, outside of my kimono coat. This actually makes the Gamefair perfect for the Early Fall attitude, being more than enough against mild-to-slightly-cold weather, and certainly is a perfect match for the muggy days that have a bit of rain. 

I’ve waxed (lol) rhapsodic about my Gamefair before, but much of my affinity for it was due to my desire to be a bit of an Anglophile and cosplay an English country gentleman (much like I did for the John Wick party). I certainly get a chance to do so when we are firmly in Fall/Winter, and I get to pair it with tweed jackets, wool ties, and tattersall waistcoats. But my use of the Gamefair is slightly different in Early Fall. It’s reserved in its aesthetic expression, becoming simply an outer layer, regardless of whether the outfit is trad or not. Plenty of guys around (especially the menswear space) wear their Barbours as a stand-alone jacket, though theirs, usually a Beaufort or Bedale, are chore coat length. Still, in Early Fall, I get to be like them and be a regular guy! 

And speaking of being a regular guy, one of the reasons I like dressing in Early Fall is because it’s an opportunity for me to wear one of the most “normal” pieces of menswear: a crewneck sweater.

I think it’s funny how much I do enjoy a good crewneck. They are quite charming, being decidedly simple and unfussy. The expressiveness they have is quite interesting and distinct! 

Their high neck not only keeps you warm and firmly contrasts the open-necked nature of warm-weather attire, but this feature also actively chides you away from wearing a tie (I know you can, but I don’t like how that looks). Wearing one only emphasizes Early Fall’s challenge to me to take a respite from my dandy, tie-wearing self. But despite their rather agnostic formality, a crewneck sweater still makes you look “dressed up”, which is a nice effect to have when you are not wearing a tie. There’s just a “normal” look to them that feels intentional and perhaps a bit pointed; maybe that’s because I find them so East Coast/Ivy-coded.

My crewneck sweaters have been with me for quite a few years at this point (I haven’t bought a new one in ages). My goal was always to have ones that were comfy but still a bit trim, bridging the gap between the chunkiness of the 80s-90s and the streamlined knitwear of the 20s-50s. A good crewneck sweater should provide you with warmth and still give you a decent figure, while allowing you to layer further if needed.  This is why I tend to like light wools (I don’t own cashmere, but I’m sure that would be fine) and midweight cottons. The latter ones are the ones I tend to wear most, not just in Early Fall but in general, as they are more easily layer-able and can be worn well through Early Spring. 

My navy and grey numbers are the most worn, functioning as a grounding piece against the checked shirts that I love to break out when we get to Fall. I do have some vibrant ones, in yellow, burgundy, and white, allowing me to have fun with color even when it’s cold (as opposed to the wild bold swing ties and floral alohas I wear when it’s warm). I’m actually glad that I’ve kept all of them with me, even as I’ve honed in on my expression (Cultural Patina anyone?). Not only is it proof that “regular”, non-tie looks are still a part of my style, but that I still actively enjoy the things that are still in my closet. 

Keep in mind that there isn’t anything special about how I wear crewneck sweaters. I just put them over any button-up shirt, with the collar points peaking out over the top. A button-down collar shirt (not all of mine are made from Oxford cloth) is most common, as going Ivy-Trad just makes sense for fall. It’s usually a plain one, as I typically reserve my striped shirts for use with ties, though the hint of color does appeal to me from time to time (but that’s when I leverage my checked shirts, which feel more casual anyway).  

I actually don’t utilize my point collars (I save them for tie looks), but I do enjoy wearing a sport shirt underneath a crewneck. With the flat points due to the lack of a neck band, their use makes for a much more slouchy attitude. It also just expresses something a bit more midcentury, which I obviously like to invoke, especially since I sometimes feel an OCBD to be a bit too period-agnostic. I also like using sport shirts because they are historically coded as the casual shirt, so it just makes sense to wear them with a crewneck, as you wouldn’t be wearing a tie anyway. There’s also a bit of humor when you take what others consider a summer shirt and use it as a colder-weather outfit. 

Of course, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention my sweater vests, as well as the one V-neck long-sleeve I own. Despite their tie-inviting aperture, I adhere to my Early Fall attitude and keep things tie-less. These sweaters worn with an open shirt, particularly a camp collar, is a look I quite like, being decidedly more vintage-leaning than the comparatively agnostic crewneck (likely because my v-necks and sweater vests are older than my crewnecks). It’s less “timeless” and more “1940s guy at home”, which is certainly a vibe to invoke in the easy Early Fall attitude. 

And yes, I also own chunky Fair Isle sweaters (crewneck and V-neck), but those are firmly for Full Sending in Fall/Winter. I’ll talk about them next time.

Of course, Early Fall is more than just my basic green jackets , a normie love of sweaters, and the decision to wear a jacket but forgo a necktie. There’s so much more involved here that would take me pages to explain, not because they’re intricate, but because of the nuances that separate them from a season-agnostic look and the combos that are decidedly Spring/Summer and Fall Winter. Remember, this whole thing is more than just bringing the casual, non-suit garments that keep me warm out from their place in the closet, but about how I wear them…without going Full Send into Fall/Winter, which is where I reserve my bolder, more intricate moves (more on that next time). Early Fall, this transition period, is a whole ass POV. 

For example, I do wear my 4-season jackets in Early Fall, but I do break out my tweeds on occasion– I just don’t add in my sweater vests with a sporty tie. Instead, I wear them with an open shirt! Or maybe I opt for a jaunty silk scarf, where a light wrap around the neck is all you need against the “cold”. Maybe the color palette is a bit earthy or fall-coded (red/yellow plaids), but it’s still decidedly tie-less and lacks multiple layers. Perhaps I do wear a tie, but it’s with jeans and a light sportcoat, making it a bit more rugged than summer but not as bundled up as Fall/Winter. Early Fall is also my cue to wear suede lace-ups, chunky mocs, or sneakers, but still keeping the entire outfit calm and easy. Again, it’s all just the casual, tie-less subgenres of all the things I enjoy ( Ivy/Drake’s and 1920s-1940s) with a helping of Americana and Workwear that I don’t give myself space to wear….until Early Fall. 

It’s true that when I’m left to my own devices, I gravitate to a jacket and tie, a move that has only been exacerbated ever since I started working remotely five years ago. It’s not that my typical tie-wearing outfits require a lot of effort to create or that I don’t consider them slouchy; in fact, it’s quite simple for me to make a “Full Send” outfit, and I’m perfectly at ease when wearing them. No, it’s just about taking the opportunity to express a different facet of my personality and taste– especially since much of my Early Fall Outfits utilize items that I’ve already owned for years. It’s similar to my approach with my darling graphic/merch tees in the summer. It’s to take a step back and take a rest from the linen jackets, madras trousers, and unbuttoned rayon shirts so I can throw on my favorite tees. Respite is good. 

That’s why Early Fall is more than just about gradually introducing layers to my outfits or adjusting my color palette. It’s about giving myself the space to be casual, both in formality and in attitude! To take a moment to calm down and be a bit softer, a bit less intense with my outfits. It’s find it quite nice to embrace the interlude between wearing days of wearing white suits with aloha shirts and the upcoming symphony of coats, sweater vests, and hats that I know I will start wearing with wild abandon once things are firmly colder. It’s also good to know that we can contain multitudes– we just need to take a moment and save space for it.

Of course, there is the fact that an Early Fall outfit can be worn at any time. Thanks to the SoCal Climate, we can have warmer days during the firm Fall/Winter; naturally, I choose to not go Full Send for practicalities’ sake. Early Fall is also functionally similar to the weather in Early Spring. And so, I end up wearing similar outfits during both of these periods, which is nice, since it would be sad to have these types of looks only be relegated to a short window. Of course, the context in Early Spring is a bit different: wearing a crewneck sweater is to help me transition from the constant layering to the welcome warmer-weather look of just a jacket and a bold tie. It’s an edited attitude, but one that still is about embracing rest. 

Be it Early Fall or Early Spring, these transition looks and moves are a biannual reset, with each micro-season serving to ease me into the next opportunity to go “Full Send”, all while letting me wear some of the looks that are less “to-do”, but still feel like me. Making time for a repose doesn’t mean that you can’t be yourself! 

Now I’m not sure that this faux-philosophical reflection was what you all expected to get from a recap of a twenty-minute section on the latest pod, but here we are. It may sound like a lot of overthinking, but believe me when I say that all of this is quite natural and only came after MJ. Indeed, this is quite interesting and something I’ve never really verbalized before. 

It’s nice to take a little bit of rest.  It’s just that for me, rest seems to take the form of sweaters, light layers, and not wearing a tie. Makes sense to me! 

Now enjoy some of our favorite Early Fall outfits as well as some inspo that we think fit the vibe (without being full Fall/Winter). 

– end of blog post –

Fall Attire

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The Podcast is produced by MJ.

Always a pleasure,Ethan