Our newest pod is all about menswear rules and advice and how most of it is bullshit, especially once you get into your own personal style.
- People look up to the Ivy-Leaguers of the 1950s and 60s for their style, but ironically they usually weren’t concerned with rules.
- We think not getting caught up on rules is more cool.
- Many menswear rules were invented to keep out new money and have roots in elitism and class-ism (white after labor day).
- There are distinctions between rules, guidelines, and advice. People tend to lump all three together.
- Beginners gravitate towards rules because it’s easier to know what not to do. The more variables, the easier it is to get something wrong.
- If everything else in your outfit is good, it’s easier to break rules, because the rule breaking appears more intentional.
- Sometimes people will dismiss the entire outfit for one thing (pleats, white socks), but we find that ridiculous.
- Some men, like Kamoshita-san can break major rules, like jacket buttoning, and still look great.
- People don’t pay as close attention to your dress as you think.
- Rules hinder people from achieving true personal style.
- You can’t achieve a good look while breaking rules in just anything. For example, you can’t mess around with button rules on an off the rack suit because it will not fit right.
- Before you break the rules, you have to have experience and understand what rules you can break with the wardrobe you have.
- Try to be nonchalant, don’t look like you’re trying to hard.
- Most men use rules not to encourage better dress, but to feel superior.
- Being obsessed with rules takes the fun out of dressing up.
- The cool guys in pop culture have usually been rule breakers. Jeans and t shirts were not everyday wear until James Dean, Marlon Brando, and others wore them in movies
- Fashion will not evolve unless rules are broken
- There are still trends in classic menswear.
- Things change, but slightly.
- People online tend to say that you can only break menswear rules if you’re handsome, but that isn’t true
- In most cases, intentional choices look good.
- Personal taste=/=bad outfits
- For the most part, if you can’t picture how a piece of clothing could potentially look good on someone, it’s because of a lack of creativity on your part.
- A white shirt, jeans, and loafers can be worn good or bad depending on the items and intention.
- Baggy does not mean wide. The “baggy” look is usually because the pants are too long.
- A more casual approach helps helps. We wouldn’t wear a black worsted wool suit with a tee shirt, but we would with a black linen or seersucker suit.
- We all have our own personal rules and guidelines, but they’re just for our own style.
- Ethan doesn’t wear derbies with DB jackets.
- Dress for yourself, not to be superior.
- Handcut Radio with Greg Lellouche
- Talks about dressing for yourself.
- Sprezzatura can seem affected despite being contrarian.
- Handcut Radio with Mark Cho
- Has a quote where he says if you can separate the suit from its formal connotations, you’ll be able to appreciate it more as fashion: “a simple matching pair of jacket and trousers”.
- Reddit thread on PTO’s White Socks article.
- RMRS on Rules You CAN Break
Q & A
(From IG Livestream): Can you shop at H&M and still dress in the styles of classic menswear?
A: You can’t.
It isn’t your fault, but the fault of the manufacturer or brand. You can still look good in H&M (MFA basic bastard look), but you can’t get details like soft shoulders, wide lapels, or long collars. There is a reason why we like vintage ties and jackets; they have details they don’t do anymore! Try thrifting/eBay as it provides a cost-effective avenue to cool details without relying on fast fashion. Or look at places like Spier & Mackay, as they do Neapolitan inspired jacketing.
From @progshell : My sister and fiance all say I look like Spencer. What do I do with this information?
A: Deal with it bozo.
Thanks for listening! We’ll see you in the next one. Buh-bye!