This includes brief visits to Liverano and Tie Your Tie!
Click HERE for the main Italy page!
While my mother’s wedding was undoubtedly the biggest part of the trip, I can’t deny my own excitement for getting to Florence. Obviously, it is a city full of art. The David is here. Judith’s slaying of Holofernes. A few notable Caravaggios and Botticellis. Firenze is also the site of a menswear pilgrimage because Pitti Uomo is held right here. And even though I have no career need to go to Pitti, it’s nice to be in the place that was the source of quite a few pieces of non-vintage inspo that were formative in my early years.
It just made sense to get dressed for the occasion. So after a three hour van ride from Venice to Florence, grabbing a quick Focaccia sandwich from the Mercato Centrale (a place that genuinely felt like home) and showering, I was fitted in my #menswear gear. It may surprise you, but it’s not exactly Esquire Man, by which I mean that I wasn’t in a striped shirt and patterned tie.
My First Fit in Florence was understated: a navy suit, a pink reverse stripe shirt, and a solid black tie. With it’s restrained and conservative feel, it does feel a bit Anglo-Italian and J. Mueser-esque, two brands that I genuinely like to follow when it comes to Pitti Style. I do like my look, as it also squares nicely between my love of solids and the tie wearing variations of the Going Out Look. That being said, I do think that somber styling is a bit of a trend in itself for certain menswear circles, no doubt being a push back from years of bold Pitti Peacocks who are honestly just having fun.
My Drake’s overshirt (bought oversized since it served as a Barbour alternative for a few years) was worn on top since rain was on the forecast. While it isn’t a bold red Cassentino overcoat, I think the almost-mauve color against the dark navy and light pink is a cool color. And fun outerwear over a conservative suit has the effect of looking quite Pitti, which I liked. In other words, I still felt like me, perhaps in an elevated way that felt right for the Florentine context.
It’s definitely silly, seeing as I’m just playing into the #menswear fandom. You might even say it’s a form of Disneybounding, the move of Disney Park attendees dressing “like” a character but with regular clothes. But I like genuinely Disneybounding and cosplay, so I don’t mind being a dork who wore a suit just because he was in a place that would soon be full of other suit guys. I unfortunately would be missing them by just shy of a week.
I did make sure to do a fit pic in front the Arno, but I guess it doensn’t really count unless it was taken by Tommy Ton, The Sartorialist, 1000YardStyle, or Jaime Ferguson.
Walking through Florence is such a trip. The streets are much narrower than Milan, but obviously not as cramped as Venice. It has an almost NYC feel for me, with the streets being even more saturated with numerous cafes and trattorias filled to the brim with locals and tourists. Despite the abundance curio shops and the aforementioned leather merchants, this place didn’t feel too much of a tourist trap like the Venice waterfront. Unlike Venice, where we had to venture deep to find some regular stuff, it was already all around us in Florence.
That first afternoon was spent mostly by myself as Isabel wanted to rest again (remember how much we walked in Venice) and understandably didn’t have the energy to accompany me during my menswear shenanigans. So off I went! Simon’s Shopping Guide came in clutch again, though a few mutuals (like Chase Winefry of J. Mueser) did have some suggestions as well. My main priorities were obviously Liverano and Tie Your Tie. I wasn’t too keen on shopping at curated vintage stores as most seemed to focus on militaria and workwear, at least based on their IG presence (and my DMs). There’s nothing wrong with that, but I’m fatigued from that stuff after seeing it at every flea market. I’m here to see some Italian stuff!
I started my journey by walking down Via Del Conti. Desii vintage was going to be my first stop, but I ended up popping into Clochard, a tiny vintage store that had a handful of men’s and women’s clothing. This place doesn’t have any online presence, so don’t get it confused with Clochard92, a vintage store in Croatia Prague. This shop was run by a sweet old lady who encouraged me to try on whatever I liked; she specifically showed me her collection of sportcoats, no doubt due to the fact that I was wearing a suit myself. With the collection of Corneliani and a few random Italian tailor brands, I knew that this is what I was after. I ended up finding a red silk DB from Boglioli for right under €80. Not a thrift store price, but definitely affordable and accessible; keep this in mind as we go to other vintage stores.
A Humana Vintage was close by, which seems to be Italy’s version of a semi-curated thrift/vintage store, where most things are under €20. I didn’t have luck in Milan, and I hoped that I would find something good in Florence, since this is a menswear town. Unfortunately, none of the jackets fit me. One was close, being quite Neapolitian (Or Florentine? I can’t remember if there were visible darts) but was quite short in jacket length. However, I did strike gold with the ties, picking up two vintage foulards for €10 total.
The rain started pouring down, but I finally made it to Desii Vintage. With its selection of vintage and modern Americana/workwear/milsurp, this store felt like home, or at least like many American menswear stores. On the modern side of the store, they stocked Sperry CVOs, selvedge jeans, Baracuta jackets, Paraboots, as well as jackets, chinos, and shirts from a variety of vintage-inspried brands. I can’t recall who made them, but it was all in the vein of Mister Freedom, Nigel Cabourn, etc. The modern side did have a few vintage pieces, specifically outerwear in the form of suede A-1s (from the 80s-90s) and Barbours (which actually included Gamefairs instead of the typical Beauforts and Bedales). It’s crazy to see just how common A-2s and Barbous were here in Italy, as they made up quite a bit of the stock at other vintage stores.
I stopped over to the vintage side, which had a pretty expansive selection of women’s designer clothing (Isabel was with me during this part, so she was able to shop a bit). On the men’s side, they had the typical milsurp and workwear-esque items as well as bunch of vintage RL, which also makeup a lot of the offerings at other stores (can’t you tell I’m getting incredibly fatigued with Americana?). It is still a very cool store and I can see it being popular among those who don’t get the chance to come out to the Rose Bowl. However, I do think the modern side was more interesting, as I like to see how designers do their take (or do alternatives) to historical garments.
Unfortunately, Desii was the last vintage shop I got to see in Florence as Tartan and Hunter, two stores that were heavily recommended to me in my DMs were both closed during my stay. I came back a few times while I was in the area, but unfortunately they weren’t open, presumably on buying trips to get ready for Pitti! It’s okay, though I did regret not seeing Tartan since I heard they had true vintage Italian stuff there, which I was more interested in than typical WWII/Vietnam takes.
Liverano was next on the list, but I got side tracked again. Right next door to Liverano was a small plaza that contained Grevi, a straw hat shop. It was run by a very friendly woman who bonded with me over our love of hats; she apparently was a big customer of the brand years ago before coming on to help them revamp their presence and run their brick and mortar. In other words, this was a storied firm that is coming back!
The store was filled with different versions of straw hats which included paper (crushable) fedora and bucket hat styles.I’m not sure if I was inspired by a few of Venice’s gondoliers, but I felt the hankering for a straw boater (yes I know that the hats are different). As someone who has been revisiting the looks I wore when I first got into menswear, it only made sense for me to reconsider the boater; after all, I’ve built up the confidence to wear fedoras regularly again. All this to say, I was delighted to see that they had a boater style for men that was just my size (L). I mentally decided to get it but didn’t actually complete the purchase until a few days later, right before I went to the Uffizi Gallery. She knew I would be back.
I could feel the gravitas when I stepped into Liverano & Liverano. Call it a meme if you want, but I do think that Antonio and Taka have been quite important to menswear, being one of the Armoury’s featured artisans for years (and therefore getting quite a bit of tumblr coverage back in the day). I’ve only been to a handful of bespoke ateliers (like Tailor Caid) over the years and this was the first time I didn’t know anyone, at least personally. I also certainly wasn’t going to buy anything (at least at this stage in life), so this was more of a pop-in visit than a true exploration.
Even though it’s a bespoke place, Liverano stocks quite a bit of ready to wear like shorts, overshirts, and their iconic floral ties and and scarfs that many a #menswear fan would see Antonio and Taka wear in countless photos. It’s not exactly my taste, but it does feel special to see it all in person. Tangible experiences indeed. I will say that I was super nervous to be there, as it was incredibly quiet, save for the A/C saving us from the warm rain the bustle of activity in the workshop that you could just make out beyond the fabric room.
I thanked the shopkeeper for letting me take a few photos and was on my way. I wanted to finish up my menswear stuff before getting dinner with Isabel!
It’s no secret that I love wearing neckties. In fact, ties might be why I love wearing suits and sportcoats; they go together and so naturally many of my outfits involve wearing those things. It’s never about dress codes or family for me but rather about making a look that happens to uses a tie and suit. That’s why Tie Your Tie Florence was probably where I had the most fun.
The shop is excellently merchandised and decorated, feeling a lot like a bespoke atelier. This makes sense as Tie Your Tie Florence (Florence must be added as TYT by itself is a different brand), not only makes neckwear, but also offers MTM tailoring. I made sure to try on their jacket (a 52), which is a very Italian: it has an extended but soft shoulder, drape in the body, and interestingly features a low buttoning point. I wish Kaga-san was here to walk me through it, but his shopkeeper was very helpful in explaining everything, including all the ties, which was why I was here in the first place.
Kaga-san’s taste is unmatched. It’s clear that he has a penchant for vintage, as many of his fabrics and patterns are similar to the jacquards and geometrics found in ties from the 1920s-1940s. While it is true that you can get “similar” ties from Drake’s or by thrifting, I firmly believe that Kenji Kaga keeps the ethos of the vintage tie alive. His pieces are nothing short that works of art, with incredibly tasteful designs that are furthered by his emphasis on the sevenfold technique where the tie is handsewn and features no interlining; the silk is folded seven times on itself to give it body. Not all his ties are sevenfolds mind you, but that is their specialty.
As I would later learn, the sevenfold make can be found from random silk stores around Italy, though it’s clear that Tie Your Tie is on another level. This is due to the quality of the make but also to the careful selection of fabrics as well as their designs. I can’t emphasize enough how special this is, as these designs are ones you can’t find anywhere else. It just so happens that Kaga pairs these beautiful motifs with excellent make. To be frank, I don’t need my ties to be made to that high of a degree (most 1930s ties are simple threefolds that aren’t even hand rolled at the edge), which is why I framed this more about getting one of Kaga’s designs. He doesn’t keep much stock, so picking the one I would go home with was a careful decision.
The shopkeeper was gracious enough to show me almost every tie they had. She told me that she could tell that I loved ties and that a decision on the right tie was a very important one, noting that I had a similar taste to Kaga in terms of geometrics. She also revealed to me that most guys who come in aren’t even #menswear guys; 70% of their customers are usually traveling guys who stumble in and can tell that this place is something special. It’s not often that they get someone who comes in because they’ve specifically heard of the store.
I initially expected to buy just one tie, but as you probably expected, I couldn’t say no to a few of them after being able to handle them in person. This is the blessing and curse of tangible experiences. But this was more than just collecting or checking something off of a #menswear list. The two ties (and one scarf) that I picked were ones that felt very me while being firmly in Kenji Kaga’s taste. I know that they will start out as true occasion ties (being as they’re so well made and can feel a little delicate), but my hope is that I reach for them as easily as I do my other jacquards and foulards. The only difference is that wearing them will also bring to mind my fun conversation with the shopkeeper and my excellent time in Florence. That’s the best souvenir you can get.
I ended my day by meeting up with Isabel for a drink at Harry’s Bar. It’s a pricey place (no €5 Aperols here), but it felt right after an incredibly #menswear day. The inside was already full, but since the rain had stopped, we were fine to enjoy our aperitifs outside near the Arno. I decided not to have a bullshot, as Chase had recommended (I’m not cool enough I think), but I got a rather delicious whiskey sour which got me propper tipsy since it had been hours since I last ate. Isabel had a mocktail as she was still feeling quite tired.
I think Isabel could tell how happy I was to be there, even if it was #notpitti. Again, there is something so absurd yet heavy to finally be in the menswear city and having a drink at the menswear place. Fellow patrons and passerbys also looked quite stylish, making for quite a vibe near the river. However, as time went on, I definitely felt a little bit of an imposter syndrome no doubt due to Isabel and I’s silly conversations and fun flash photos. I’d say we had “new money” behavior, but without the money!
We initially wanted dinner at Za Za, but we neglected to set a reservation and found that it was filled to the brim; the line to simply put your name down took up the street. Instead, we went to the Lorenzo de’ Medici Restaurant, which sat us down promptly. Since I was already tipsy, we declined to get glasses of wine. However, the inebriation did result in me ordering a Florentine bistecca all to myself; Isabel wanted to get ribollita (a soup, which is one of her favorite dishes) and a pizza. I did my best to eat as much of the steak as possible and I think I did a pretty good job, considering I wasn’t helped by Pitti attendees (I often see photos of groups eating bistecca).
A decadent €8 gelato was my dessert of choice (when in Rome, I guess), which was the final move to activate my food coma. Thankfully, we were only a 5 minute walk from our hotel at this point.
Day Two
If I wanted to return to any of the stores I visited during the previous day, there was no way I could. That’s because it was Republic Day, the holiday celebrating the birth of the Republic of Italy and the fall of fascism. It also meant that a few businesses were closed in observance of the day. This included Grevi, which is why I had to scramble during the next day in order to buy my hat (more on that later).
However, shopping wasn’t on our mind as the main thing we had to do that day was go to Pisa in the afternoon. It’s about an hour and a half away, so this would take up most of our afternoon and evening. This left the morning and lunch open for our own devices!
Isabel suggested that we go to Le Vespe, a quaint cafe that served “Canadian-style” brunch. She had actually gone to it seven years before when she studied abroad in Florence. I was excited to experience it with her, so off we went on a nearly 30 minute walk to get there. It was definitely worth it, since the food was tasty! After eating eggs, prosciutto, and a croissant each morning, it was fun to get a breakfast burrito.
Since we were now in a city setting and no longer doing a waterfront vacation, my look shifted slightly. The slouchy vibes are always present, but I think you can tell that this was a different execution. I went with something simple: my brown rayon sportshirt worn untucked with my WWII chinos and deck shoes. The outfit does bear an unfortunate resemblance to the “Old Money Aesthetic” that has tiktok (and fashion) by storm, but I tried my best to ignore that. The easy, earth-tone centric look was nice, practical, and still felt like me. It was perfect for an easy sightseeing day.
On the way back from Le Vespe, we stopped by Epoca Vintage which was surprisingly open! I first saw it (closed) on the same street as Liverano and Grevi, so I was intrigued to check it out. The selection was pretty cool, but also echoed a lot of what I had previously seen at Desii (as well as what I’d see in other vintage stores): barbour jackets, 70s-90s designer tailoring, barbours, and a handful of Levis jeans. Prices were incredibly high, being around €200. Of course, I wasn’t set on buying anything, especially considering the cool finds of the previous day.
I will say that most of the suits and jackets were tweed or at least very heavy and textured; other ones were pure polyester, being from the 60s-70s. There wasn’t much in the way of summer clothing, which was honestly surprising.
After saying goodbye to the shopkeeper (and checking out a few other stores on the way), Isabel and I headed off to the train station (across from the Fortezza da Basso) to jump on the bus to Pisa. Pisa, at least the square that contains the baptistry, cathedral, and the iconic bell tower, was incredibly crowded. It was basically like the Doge’s palace/St. Mark’s square back in Venice. The tour didn’t take long, as most of it was about the architecture of each building and a bit about the artwork inside the cathedral. We then had an hour to kill, which Isabel, Nicholas, and I spent taking silly photos with the tower and getting gelato in the town.
We were incredibly hungry after the lengthy drive back to Florence, which is why Isabel offered up another one of her favorites from her time abroad: Il Giova. It was a little bit of a walk, but it was worth it! I changed my into trousers, loafers, and a sportcoat (basically kept the shirt) in order to have a “dinner” feel.
Like other trattorias, it is quite small but we surprisingly were able to be seated right away. To our surprise (mainly Isabel’s), the menu was focused on seafood which most of us don’t really eat. However, I was entranced by the salmon pasta which was absolutely delicious; Isabel and Camden also enjoyed their non-sea food and were delighted when we shared their fried vegetable platter (which included mushrooms and squash blossoms). We also pre-gamed for the evening with their house white wine and ended our meal with a tiramisu.
I say “pre-gamed” because we were set to meet up at a karaoke bar with Ty, Adri, and Thanassius. Nicholas brought up The Red Garter during the wedding and with all of us being theater kids, we knew we had to make this happen. We got to the bar around 9:30PM and they oddly didn’t let us in until nearly 10:30. I wonder if they wanted to let the line to stack up in order to make it seem more “tempting” for passerbys. I’m not sure it worked because a few people behind us ended up leaving; we stayed because we were set on this karaoke bar!
Once inside, we had more drinks, where the bar was weirdly empty, and moved to the karaoke stage which was absolutely packed with patrons. It seemed to be a tourist haven, not just for Americans (some of which I actually recognized when I was out and about the previous day) but for other Europeans. Since it was crowded and the stage looked intimidating, we were just going to spend our time watching other people sing (which were mainly all crowd pleasers like Rihanna, Coldplay, Billy Joel, and two nearly consecutive servings of “I Will Survive”). However, the alcohol kicked in and unleashed the singer in me. So I got in the long line (with more alcohol) and ended up singing Joji’s “Slow Dancing in the Dark”, which was my own crowd pleaser of sorts; I don’t think the crowd would have enjoyed Dear Evan Hansen. Thankfully everyone cheered and my friends and family said they were proud of me (especially since i didn’t do any showtunes).
Karaoke in a foreign country is something I can check off my bucket list.
Day Three
Our last day in Firenze was jam packed. You wouldn’t think that was the case if you looked at my mom’s itinerary, which only listed a four hour walking tour that started at 2PM (reminds me of the Venice one, but starting later). However, since most places open at 10AM (and close at 7PM) and it takes 30 minutes to walk around, this really meant that we had a tiny bit of time to check out whatever it was we wanted to see before leaving the city. I still had to get my hat from Grevi, which was closed the day before due to Republic Day. However, our walking tour did not include the Uffizi, which was an absolute must for us.
So that morning Isabel and I split up after breakfast. She got in line at the Uffizi, which was near the Ponte Vecchio, while I hightailed it to Grevi. Grevi is a small store with only one shopkeeper so it took a little while to fully acquire my hat (it involved a bit of paperwork in order to get my VAT refund). When I finished, I walked back out into the street to discover I had a bunch of missed calls from Isabel– the line was actually moving quickly and they required the entire party to be present in order to purchase tickets. I turned a 15 minute walk into a sprightly 8 minute jog, with a full tote bag and wearing my new straw boater.
Thankfully my fit wasn’t too crazy. Like I said in the master post, I wanted to be smart with this trip. Like the fit to Pisa, it was a sportshirt and a pair of big pants. You may recall that I had already worn this shirt in Venice, paired with a blazer and shorts. This time, the lovely yellow checked sportshirt (in cotton) was worn sans jacket and with my m43 pants. Sneakers proved to be the move of the day due to all the walking I had already done that morning. Remember that we were still set to do a full walking tour later on that day!
The Uffizi was nothing short of amazing. Much of this was due to Isabel, who had a penchant for Art History during her time in college (compared to my non-existent art classes); she was basically my guide during our visit.
In the galleries, you could really see how Italian art had changed through the years. Botticelli and the Early Renaissance truly shook things up from typical altar art, paving the way for others to provide their own takes on portraiture and scenery. As you probably expect, my favorites came later with Caravaggio and Gentileschi with more striking use of light and contrast (that usually informs my photography style). I’m actually surprised that we got through the entire gallery with plenty of time to meet up with my family for the walking tour.
Like the Venice walking tour, the one through Florence was simultaneously stimulating and exhausting. We followed our tour guide around the main parts of Florence (like the Duomo and Dante’s house) learning about how the Medici’s basically did everything in the city. I didn’t know that they were actually exiled out of Florence a few times, but obviously none of it took since they came back every time with a vengeance.
On a personal note, I was very grateful that most of the sites we went to had a stone bench (or a gelato stand) for me to rest my dying feet.
The tour ended at the Accademia Gallery, which housed Michelangelo’s David. It’s honestly surreal to see something so famous in person, big hands, heart eyes and all. It is indeed the main feature in that museum, but there are also a few other sculptures and paintings that were worth seeing before we dipped out and had a bit of free time before dinner. We were actually going to meet up with Adri, Ty, and Thanassis again since this was going to be the last leg of the trip that we would share together.
On the way back to the hotel (to rest and change for dinner), Isabel and I ran into a few more vintage stores. One was Street Doing Vintage, which like Epoca had an incredibly curated selection. It had a big focus on womenswear, but there was a sizeable part that was for men. Designer jackets, ties, Barbours (no Solways), and Church’s shoes were the main faire yet again but there was also a bit of true 60s-70s vintage which included a pair of jacquard flares that unfortunately did not fit me (they were also priced accordingly). I actually walked out with a repp tie from their €20 tie section (which I honestly felt was better than their designer ties).
We also came across Melrose Vintage which felt quite closer to an LA vintage store in terms of vibes. Lots of denim, chinos, and fedoras could be found near the front. In the back, they had a large section of men’s tailoring which ranged from 60s continental attire to a few modern stuff. Unfortunately nothing was in my size, so we went on home.
Since it was the last evening in Florence, the #menswear town, I decided to dress for the occasion. My full navy suit was back on, this time being worn with my beloved blue reverse stripe spearpoint. This would make it similar to my “rainy night in” outfit at Lake Como but instead of a solid tie, I decided to wear one of my newly thrifted ties: the cream foulard. I think this combo made for a nice evening look. I did take a chance and wear my new boater as well, which a few passerbys did enjoy (though I’m sure a few locals laughed). Hey, there were plenty of silly tourists wearing straw hats and I just happened to be one of them. Sue me!
It was a great dinner that in true Italian fashion, went on quite long and involved quite a few bottles of wine. Me and a few others shared a Bistecca Florentina (because duh) while the others got their pasta fix. A few of us are newly family, so I really am glad I got to spend this time with them before we parted ways. A fellow American tourist was gracious enough to snap our group photo to commemorate this lovely dinner. Of course, sharing the panna cotta and tiramisu dessert was not enough for us, so we grabbed gelato nearby before adjourning to our hotel. We all had another day of travel ahead of us, some of them going home and others pressing onward to Rome.
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a little bit of rest 
Ethan, nice writeup) … also have to say great that when you actually wear tailoring, you do a clear shot, from the front, with no sticking hands in pockets, stretching the jacket, or crossing your arms, and generally stopping the viewer from actually being able to see the cut and fit of the jacket) Perhaps that shows something about your lack of insecurity) Anyway, was quite intrigued by Tie Your Tie Florence MTM tailoring, would you recommend it? What was the price like? … Im frightened to ask, since their ties are quite pricey. I have one from them which I bought online which is excellent, burgundy, with gold squares and love it, but cost a fortune for a tie)
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Thanks Zatara! I try to show off my outfits “nicely” in the first shot, which then frees me up to have more fun with the images and poses in subsequent ones. That being said, it probably helps that I obsess over fit and try to fix everything before I actually wear it out; once you see the outfit on my body, its already fixed up and I can be at ease.
As to your TYT MTM question, I can’t believe I forgot to write it down! From what I can remember, they said it was around $1.5-2K for a jacket (depending on fabric) but I could be wrong. I remember it being about on par with a typical MTM service. Overall, they are quite pricey but I think the ties are at least worth it, due it being more novel. I would have only bought from them in person (which is why I went).
I hope this helps!
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That makes sense) … makes a change to actually be able to see fit and cut properly, most menswear photos are trying to show a ‘vibe’ so much so, that the actual garments become obscured, & are useless in working out what a jacket or suit may actually look like in real life.
On the MTM Tie Your Tie, that sounds reasonable, esp. as Ive seen prices escalate a lot over the last few years in the menswear world. They’ve gone from expensive, but something that represents value, to in quite a few cases too expensive to justify. Ive noticed a *2 multiple in price in many cases from about 10 years ago which is a lot. On the jackets in TYT Florence, do you know if Kaga San designs these himself, maybe creates his own patterns for them, or is it more a generic MTM service provided by the store?
On buying directly, you are lucky to have been able to get to the store) Their ties are really very tasteful, & well made, & I’d love to be able to see them in person before buying too. Problem is there are not many stockists of them as far as I can tell.
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Hi Zatara,
The sales person mentioned that Kaga developed the designs himself, though I do not know the factory, so not sure how much control he has over it. It does look specific to his taste with that lowered buttoning point (too low IMO). She also mentioned that his trousers were also made high; they appear more mid rise compared to my typical trouser height (I did not try them on).
Yes, my Italy trip was quite lucky indeed! My ties are both souvenir and artisanal item. the only stockist I had been to was Brycelands and I did like their selection! But at the time, I was working glorified retail and did not have the money to buy them.
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