We’re talking about neckties on the pod!
Listen to the Podcast Episode here!
Previous Articles on Neckties
- Why You Should Consider Vintage Ties
- Thrifting Ties
- A General Guide to Vintage Menswear by Era
- Drake’s MTO Tie
- Your Tie and Sprezzatura
- Striped Shirts and Patterned Ties
- Bold Ties
- Pulling off the Bowtie
- The necktie has its origins in Croatian mercenary uniforms and were used to tie the top of their jacket. – Source
- The stock (similar to a cravat) was popular in the 18th and early 19th centuries.
- By the mid-19th century, the modern necktie emerged. The style has changed since then, but the basic shape has not.
- Neckties were almost mandatory item for a long time- covering the shirt was important. Shirtsleeves were usually worn by laborers and it was considered underwear.
- Even when dress standards became more casual, people still wore ties.
- Ties have always been considered a fashion piece and as a way to stand out.
- Ties, like suits, had their own distinct shapes, least until the early 1930s.
- Ties were art and fashion, not a symbol of corporate America.
- In the 1920s, tie makers standardized the width and shape of ties.
- Ties were made short until the 1960s/1970s because men wore high waisted trousers.
- Incredible craftsmanship went into ties- brocades, silks, jacquards. Brands like Tie your Tie, Sevenfold, etc. keep that alive.
- Ties will always be popular with people who consider them art.
- Not everyone in the late 1940s and 50s wore bold swing ties- solids, stripes, and simple geometric patterns were always popular.
- Ethan still regularly wears ties from the 1930s- a testament to their construction and classic design.
- Vintage ties are very thin- usually unlined with hand rolled or machine rolled edges. We prefer that because we use a four in hand knot.
- Ties after the 1970s tends to be very thick due to thicker interlining.
- The windsor knot was not the standard tie knot until around the 1970s.
- Novelty ties in the 1940s and 50s were much better than the Bugs Bunny ties you can buy today- some were painted by artists like Salvador Dali.
- Drake’s London began in the 1970s and made ties early on.
- Ties from Drake’s are only slightly more expensive than many mall brands. The extra cost is well worth it for the design and craftsmanship offered by Drake’s.
- Most people will shop at Drake’s because they like ties, rather than because they need a tie for work.
- We buy vintage ties for the same reason we buy Drake’s ties- we can’t find the specific designs, proportions, and quality construction anywhere else.
- Vintage ties (pre 1950s) have a distinct shape because they are shorter and flare outward near the bottom.
- We still buy vintage ties for their price- you can usually find them for $20 or less.
- Ethan was gifted a custom tie from Drake’s- he made it slightly longer than vintage ties so he can tuck in the back blade, but it also wasn’t as long as modern ties.
- Corporate dress has gotten more conservative- men used to be able to get away with more self expression.
- There is a difference between people who wear ties because they have to and people who wear ties because they want to.
- Our favorite ties are stripes, foulards, and madder/paisley’s.
- You can be casual with a tie as long as you have a casual attitude. It helps if you tuck it in or have the back blade standing out.
Modern Tie Makers
- TieYourTie & Sevenfold
Sources for Vintage Ties
Q & A
From Sam: What are your favorite repro menswear?
From Valtteri: Where can I find the best ivy style inspiration?
- Take Ivy
- Old 60’s Photographs
- Read Ametora
- Tailor Caid/Yamamoto-San
- Drake’s for Neo-ivy/prep
Submit stories and questions here!
Hi ethan unrelated to your blog post but I think you have the drakes cotton overshirt. Can I ask if the sleeves are wide enough to accommodate another long sleeve shirt underneath?
Yes I do own a drake’s overshirt! I got a medium but it still fits a bit slim in the arms. I can fit a normal button up underneath without issue, but I have my hesitations about wearing a sweater (on top of a dress shirt).
Thanks ethan! On that note do you feel the arms are slim on their sportscoats that you tried? Asking as I may be eyeing one of their jackets but afraid arms may be too small.