We’re talking about neckties on the pod!

Listen to the Podcast Episode here!

Previous Articles on Neckties

• Why You Should Consider Vintage Ties
• Thrifting Ties
• A General Guide to Vintage Menswear by Era
• Drake’s MTO Tie
• Your Tie and Sprezzatura
• Striped Shirts and Patterned Ties
• Bold Ties
• Pulling off the Bowtie

Notes

• The necktie has its origins in Croatian mercenary uniforms and were used to tie the top of their jacket. – Source
• The stock (similar to a cravat) was popular in the 18th and early 19th centuries.
• By the mid-19th century, the modern necktie emerged. The style has changed since then, but the basic shape has not.
• Neckties were almost mandatory item for a long time- covering the shirt was important. Shirtsleeves were usually worn by laborers and it was considered underwear.
• Even when dress standards became more casual, people still wore ties.
• Ties have always been considered a fashion piece and as a way to stand out.
• Ties, like suits, had their own distinct shapes, least until the early 1930s.
• Ties were art and fashion, not a symbol of corporate America.
• In the 1920s, tie makers standardized the width and shape of ties.
• Ties were made short until the 1960s/1970s because men wore high waisted trousers.
• Incredible craftsmanship went into ties- brocades, silks, jacquards. Brands like Tie your Tie, Sevenfold, etc. keep that alive.
• Ties will always be popular with people who consider them art.
• Not everyone in the late 1940s and 50s wore bold swing ties- solids, stripes, and simple geometric patterns were always popular.
• Ethan still regularly wears ties from the 1930s- a testament to their construction and classic design.
• Vintage ties are very thin- usually unlined with hand rolled or machine rolled edges. We prefer that because we use a four in hand knot.
• Ties after the 1970s tends to be very thick due to thicker interlining.
• The windsor knot was not the standard tie knot until around the 1970s.
• Novelty ties in the 1940s and 50s were much better than the Bugs Bunny ties you can buy today- some were painted by artists like Salvador Dali.
• Drake’s London began in the 1970s and made ties early on.
• Ties from Drake’s are only slightly more expensive than many mall brands. The extra cost is well worth it for the design and craftsmanship offered by Drake’s.
• Most people will shop at Drake’s because they like ties, rather than because they need a tie for work.
• We buy vintage ties for the same reason we buy Drake’s ties- we can’t find the specific designs, proportions, and quality construction anywhere else.
• Vintage ties (pre 1950s) have a distinct shape because they are shorter and flare outward near the bottom.
• We still buy vintage ties for their price- you can usually find them for $20 or less.
• Ethan was gifted a custom tie from Drake’s- he made it slightly longer than vintage ties so he can tuck in the back blade, but it also wasn’t as long as modern ties.
• Corporate dress has gotten more conservative- men used to be able to get away with more self expression.
• There  is a difference between people who wear ties because they have to and people who wear ties because they want to.
• Our favorite ties are stripes, foulards, and madder/paisley’s.
• You can be casual with a tie as long as you have a casual attitude. It helps if you tuck it in or have the back blade standing out.

 

 

Modern Tie Makers

• Drake’s
• TieYourTie & Sevenfold
• Gabucci
• Spacca-Neapolis

Sources for Vintage Ties

• eBay
• Vintage Haberdashers
• Paper Moon Vintage
• Joyride Vintage

Q & A

From Sam:  What are your favorite repro menswear?

A:

• Scott Fraser Collection
• Simon James Cathcart
• Thomas Farthing
• Monsivais & Co.
• Bryceland’s
• LVC
• RRL

From Valtteri: Where can I find the best ivy style inspiration?

• OxfordClothButtonDown
• Take Ivy
• Ivy-Style.com
• Old 60’s Photographs
• Read Ametora
• Tailor Caid/Yamamoto-San
• Beams+
• Drake’s for Neo-ivy/prep

Submit stories and questions here!

Buh-bye!

@spencerdso & @ethanmwong | @styleanddirection