Spencer, MJ, and I tlak about our love of Navy Suits on the podcast. The pod serves as a brief introductory discussion on the subject, particularly as Spencer takes the time to discuss his affection for Navy Jackets (not Navy Blazers) and the effect it has. It’s a good topic! I suggest you listen to it below before reading my essay.

• Topic Intro – 3:05
• Navy Suits are the “Default” – 7:22 
• Versatility and What We Like to Wear with Navy – 20:38
• Different Fabrics/Patterns of Navy Suits – 43:08 
• Shoes – 54:21
• Building Our Navy Suit(s) – 56:53 
• Wearing for Occasions – 1:08:28
• Wrap-Up – 1:14:35

It is quite funny that it’s taken me a decade to write about Navy Suits. I’ve given so much attention to other things over the years (grey suits, brown checked jackets, white bucks) that it’s easy to assume that I think Navy Suits weren’t worth an entire blog post. And honestly, there’s some truth to that. It’s not that Navy Suits are boring, but that so much has already been said about them, much of which I agree with. They’re a great basic, they’re formal and casual when you need them to be, and as a result, they should be the first suit (or only suit, if you’re not a menswear guy) you should own. Even if you will likely never wear the trousers on their own (my Navy odd pants are my least worn garment), you’ll wear the jacket with ease…and the suit will be there when the Occasion calls for it.

It felt superfluous for me to throw my two cents in…until it suddenly felt pertinent that I should do so.

You see, the very fact that I’ve written so much about other suits (grey, brown, white) made the lack of Navy discourse quite jarring. The reality is that I do care deeply about Navy Suits, to the point where it is always my first choice for a commission whenever I try out a maker (Atelier Fugue, Hall Madden, and now Suit Supply). When I “test” out certain combinations or hell, when I simply want to wear a new item in general (shirt, tie), I always pair it with a Navy Suit first; convention says that it will work with other things if it passes that test. A Navy Suit is not only Foundational but essential, truly being the first thing I would get if my existing wardrobe were somehow lost. It felt wrong that something so dear to me had never been canonized on the blog or pod. Why is that?

The answer was obvious. The other suits were simply more compelling topics. At the very least, they were a way for me to platform my views about Menswear Convention as well as share aspects of my personality and how they relate to clothes.  These posts were about doubling down on slouch and ease (brown), celebrating Occasion and Dandyness (white), or discovering the appeal of sobriety (grey). 

These were romantic essays, full of passion and love for those garments. And in a world where we should constantly be excited about the items we own, this made them an easy and important subject. But here’s the thing: love doesn’t exist solely as a romantic notion. No, Love can be platonic. Even if it’s not overly sentimental or excitingly erotic, platonic love is still incredibly important. It nourishes soul, serving as a stoic partner no matter what changes. Platonic love is something to celebrate and write about…and why I felt that it was time to introspect and talk about why I love the Navy Suit. 

Do not misunderstand my words on platonicism. I find myself continually compelled by Navy Suits, even if I don’t sing its praises on every occasion. It’s simply a deep, understated affection that I’ve distilled from its history as well as from my own use. But one thing is clear– this love is rooted in the inherent “personality” of its color. 

To me, the shade exudes authority and safety while retaining depth and richness. Despite its severity, it still feels dynamic and perhaps even organic, not vibrantly in the way one might find a flower field but more so in the awe and wonder of a dark sea. It’s just a different vibe than wearing Navy as separates. As versatile as a Navy jacket is, it can sometimes feel like a half-measure. No, a full Navy Suit is where it’s at: a drape-cut jacket (your choice of SB or DB) with long, full-cut trousers, all done up in Navy’s staunch-yet-humble demeanor. 

These qualities make a Navy Suit come across as authoritative yet inviting, setting it apart from the austere and emotionless attitude of Grey as well as the inherently casual and “off-kilter” nature of a Brown. I also find that Navy captures a bit of the spirit of Black in its natural darkness, but does so without being solemn, edgy, or even too chic. Navy lacks an upfront personality, allowing the wearer to fill in the attitude or POV as needed. In that way, the Navy Suit expresses the platonic ideal of tailoring (or menswear) to begin with.

A Navy Suit’s enduring and seemingly diffident puissance is highlighted when it’s paired with a shirt and tie. Navy’s quiet intensity envelops your accouterments, securing them between your presumably wide lapels. However, it doesn’t swallow them up. Instead, Navy propels them to the surface, providing your shirt and tie (or knitwear or tee) to the surface, allowing them to take center stage. It feels like a backdrop for a portrait, providing the necessary drama for a sartorial outfit. But that doesn’t mean that it’s meant to be forgotten. Navy Blue plays into the overall effect, with its hues functioning not as cold contrast but as a comforting and inviting partner.

This is incredibly important to me, because the joy of Classic Menswear (and wearing tailoring in general) lies in mixing patterns, usually as striped shirts + patterned ties. This can be done with any suit mind you, but Navy simply does it best. It’s never too serious, nor too novel or “fashion”. Navy is bold in its deep, neutral dignity, which I find enticing.  It just helps me look bold and vintage (compared to say a corporate or Styleforum type fit) while remaining tempered.

Many of my Navy Suit outfits are an excuse to lean into pattern mixing— or simply feature a pattern in general. Shirts in stripes and checks of various scales. Ties of all kinds: soft foulard squares, structured geometrics. Abstract swing designs, multi-colored plaids, traditional and deco stripes. A Navy Suit simply calls out to such items, compelling me to produce diverting combinations defined only by my desired POV or desired expression that day (Ivy, Apparel Arts, western).  I don’t mean that plain items don’t look good with Navy, but that the Navy’s neutral presence inherently entices me to have fun with my shirt and tie combinations. 

This is why I particularly enjoy wearing bowties with my Navy Suits, simply because I find that Navy’s innate nature helps reel in a bowtie jaunty color/pattern (mine are almost always a geometric/foulard) and overall demeanor. It’s not that bow ties make a Navy Suit casual, but that the Suit calibrates the expression. There are more than a few Apparel Arts illustrations that feature a bow tie with a Navy Suit (and a boater to boot). Weirdly, I’ve come to think that a [dark] Navy Suit’s intrinsic gravitas lightly hints at the tuxedo (which always utilizes a bow tie). I tend to feel like my Navy Suit + bow tie fits contain a modicum of that evening wear elegance, even if pattern mixing is still involved (and certainly not something I do in black tie). 

My use of Aloha Shirts (or other patterned sport shirts) with Navy Suits operates equivalently. Such shirts are meant to be casual and fun, which I usually embrace and display proudly by wearing them sans jacket. However, there are days when my mood (not formality) dictates that adjudication is needed. A Navy Suit mutes the sonorant prints, elegantly leaving only the slightest murmur between my jacket’s lapels. This creates a fun take on casual (i.e., not formal or business attire) warm weather dressing, leaving the final decision of footwear (sandals or loafers) to determine how much more dressed down you want to go.  The approach is similar when I use rugged shirts (western shirts, workshirts). The juxtaposition is fun, but tempered thanks to Navy.

In a similar vein, Navy works easily whenever I wear tee shirts. Solids, as well as Breton and multi stripes, are a no-brainer, as Navy brings them front and center without hesitation. However, I especially like the effect when I wear my beloved merch tees! Not only do I enjoy how Navy provides structure to what is perhaps the most casual garment I wear (no, I don’t wear ribbed tanks out) but that the deep color harmonizes easily with any graphic: band (or orchestra) logos, cheeky phrases, Star Wars characters. When I get the hankering to pair a suit with a tee and fuse an outward appreciation of fandom with my love of tailoring, I can easily reach for Navy. 

Whether it’s a jaunty pattern combination or the use of casual or rugged items, I love that I can always rely on Navy. But it’s more than just defaulting; it’s an excited invocation. I am taken with the idea that something so sobering can be worn with a bit of fun. I don’t really think that I am “dressing down” or “taking the piss out of” the Navy Suit but rather the opposite— I am dressing up these casual-coded items/stylings by wearing a somber Navy Suit.

It exudes the concept of Forced Versatility: I could wear a more “fun” suit (such as brown, khaki, or white) with this combo, but I’m opting to wear it with a more subdued Navy Suit. Perhaps one might think it’s my only suit— I’m just getting the most out of it that I possibly can. That’s love!

Despite my appreciation of the Navy Suit being rooted in its color function and ability to balance subtlety and gravitas, I would be remiss if I didn’t speak to its “formal” roots. After all, a Navy Suit is intertwined with Occasion and Business attire, becoming as the quixotic ideal of a suit by that storied association.  After all, Navy’s dark shade does hint at formal black, but without going quite as far.  I do strive to subvert this with my aforementioned moves, but I will admit that there are times when I choose to embrace this aspect of Navy and lean into formality and elegance while balancing restraint and personality.

In other words, this is when I wear a brocade or jacquard tie, which, like the Navy suit, also expresses that nuanced vibe. The abstract designs woven onto lustrous silk are fully on display when surrounded by Navy.  It is quite an effect. The Navy nourishes the brocade, emphasizing and grounding the tie’s dynamism, which results in a lively yet refined expression. This combination obviously expresses a decidedly Golden Era (specifically 1920s-1930s) aesthetic, providing character to an Occasion-appropriate (cocktails/dinner, business) outfit while still being read as classic. In other words, it’s a way for me to be formal without feeling restrained. 

I also enjoy taking the ivy-trad route and opting for repp stripes when formality is the desired effect. With the use of a striped tie, the result is an outfit that artfully provides formality (or at the very least, being reserved) while maintaining a soupçon of restraint. I find that I do this move when a brocade, as enchanting as they might be, might be too much for the Occasion…or perhaps more realistically in my life of self-imposed dress codes and prompts, when I want to be decidedly “Ivy” instead of “Golden Era” while still being formal.  As before, Navy works its magic by enveloping the stripes while still allowing their colors to shine.

Obviously, shirt choice plays into either mode, where a plain shirt harmonizes with the surrounding Navy cloth and upholds the relatively formal vibe. In the case of repp stripes, a solid OCBD slots in just fine and doubles down on the ivy aesthetic. If “softening” the formality is the goal, then going with my beloved striped shirts works well with elegant brocades (if you want to remain 1930s coded) as well as repp stripes (a more generally conservative look). There is still a formal air when compared to the general pattern mixing I previously discussed.

There is also my use of infrequent plain ties, which allows me to fully access the calm provided by Navy Suit while still being read as formal. A black tie, in the form of a matte wool or a crunchy knit (when Ivy is invoked), is my frequent choice, but I also enjoy silver/grey and cream/khaki on occasion.  Solid ties are a simple and easy way to achieve formality, which is why it’s a seldom-done move. I wholeheartedly prefer the intricacies of patterns over solids. That’s why I at least tend to wear some sort of patterned shirt whenever I pair solid ties with my Navy Suit—or I simply save my solid ties for use with my other suits or simply use them in separates, which in the case of the latter, is inherently about creating intricacies in menswear. 

Many of these ideas are adapted when I aim to appear chic instead of formal. As always, shirt and tie choice is highlighted here, with just a bit of tweaking to ensure that the combination is artful and streamlined (and perhaps a bit edgy) compared to being on the reserved side. In most cases, the combinations are about darker color palettes; I avoid the business aspect of plain white or light blue shirts. 

Of course, there are also days when I want to go with an open shirt and lean into being sexy. Tie adjacent ideas are at play here, usually because I take the time to wear a jaunty scarf, which I find abstractly similar to a necktie. But whether my neck is open or not, the emphasis of the outfit is placed on the shirt fabric (usually rayon), color, and how open the shirt is. All of it remains enveloped by Navy. 

Whether its a chic shirt-tie combination or simply about how unbuttoned my shirt is, it’s clear that the effect is about playing into Navy’s adjacency to Black. However, I simply do not feel the need to own a Black Suit, as it doesn’t really work with any Apparel Arts-style combinations, limiting its use in my greater wardrobe. Forced Versatility is key here, as this is about me doing what people may consider to be a “black suit outfit” but with the Navy that I already own. A Navy Suit simply does whatever I need it to do. 

Don’t get me wrong– each of these moves can certainly be done or at least played with with my beloved grey, brown, or white suits. I obviously employ them quite often (I always get the most out of my wardrobe). But the difference lies in the platonic allure of the Navy Suit.

In my mind, a Navy Suit is simply “a suit”, whereas the others tend to come with their own innate personality. Grey is trad and austere, covering combinations in staid air and not really playing into the palette of your shirt and tie choices. Brown is casual and a bit rustic, pushing your combination toward being slouchy and sporty. White is inherently summery and brings a vacation or tropical vibe to everything it’s worn with. Black (which I don’t and will not own) will always be edgy and a bit too chic.

I consider those suits as more of a fashion (or character-driven) choice, as the intention is to deliberately invoke (or choose to subvert) their resounding personality and create an emphatic expression of Menswear Character. A Navy Suit is a different beast. It contains a more subtle gravitas, functioning more as a tool that allows the wearer to put more focus on other elements of our outfits. It’s also because again, a Navy Suit isn’t overtly a fashion choice— it’s just what people tend to think a Suit should be. 

This effect is especially true when it comes to shirts. You guys know that I routinely wear a variety of fabrics (denim/chambray, poplin/broadcloth, oxford cloth) as well as overall styles (spearpoint, workshirt, sportshirt, point collar, button-down) and patterns (plaid, stripes) with each choice predicated on the Character I’ve decided to “be” for the day. With all of the other suits, the shirt choice is “lost” in the holistic look, which can be a desired effect with Cinematic Dressing.  However, if I want to specifically highlight my tie-shirt interaction or the shirt choice in particular (such as an aloha shirt or an open western shirt), the Navy Suit does that job the best. It is a tool, one that you should be delighted to utilize when dressing.

To be clear, the whole article is predicated on the use of worsted wool, which I believe to be the truest, most platonic version Navy Suit. I realize how funny this is, considering how, for a while, my only Navy suit was cut from cotton. This served me fine for a while, but once I realized that a Navy Suit is about embracing the themes of tailoring, I knew that wool was the way to go. If I could start over, I would’ve done that first.

I specifically like a dense, mid-weight open-weave wool to maximize four-season wearability and resistance to wrinkling, and a clean drape. Such cloth tends to be quite matte, which allows the suit to retain depth without being shiny, a quality that detracts from the essence of Navy (or any sartorial color for that matter); the open weave also creates a bit of texture, which lends the jacket to be used as a separate with ease (though again this blog post is about the full suit). Fox Air, Fresco, Crispaire, and general four-ply cloth are what I’d recommend; the latter two options are what my trusty Navy suits have been made of (I’ve also owned a hopsack navy suit and it was fine, but I prefer moving away from a jacketing cloth). 

Now that being said, I do enjoy Navy Suits made from other fabrics, provided that you already own the classic worsted wool one. If I had unlimited money and lived in a true four-season climate, I wouldn’t shy away from Navy Suits cut from wide-wale corduroy, heavy linens, or perhaps even a tweed (in herringbone or even a punchy Donegal with some non-navy flecks). These variations are how you can introduce personality and fun to Navy’s gravitas in a more holistic way than a simple shirt and tie (or general top) choice.

For example, a Navy cord suit certainly is reserved due to color in a way that reads “slouchy” due to the plush and decidedly Ivy cloth. A Navy Linen Suit balances its depth with a resort-themed attitude; it shows that you are serious but down to relax and not be concerned about wrinkles. It’s not unlike the idea of owning white shirts in a variety of fabrics simply based on the desired effect: poplin (business/formal), oxford (for lightly casual/ivy), linen (casual and summer). It’s just that I tend to wear oxford with everything, echoing my versatile use of open-weave cloth in suiting.  

Don’t worry– I haven’t forgotten to discuss design details. I simply don’t have much to say because my philosophy is consistent with any other suit I own. 

Trousers are always double pleated with a wide (or straight) leg ending in a turn-up.  A single-breasted jacket is best done as 3-roll-2 with notch lapels; a double-breasted should be 6×2 with a wide peak (preferred to be horizontal, but I’ve owned bellied ones). Both would have swelled edges and patch pockets, two sporty features that I like across any suit, and that certainly makes for a fun move when done on Navy. It’s not about taking the piss out of a Navy Suit (such details have historical precedent) but that a Navy Suit still retains gravitas despite such casual details. Navy is great in that way. 

[What’s funny is that my latest Navy Suit has flap pockets as I’m experimenting with a more traditional/conservative form. I do wish I went with patch. Oh well.]

On that note, the choice between the two types of closures depends on the attitude you want your Navy Suit to have. The SB doubles down on the platonic and neutral vibe, providing you with a truly blank canvas to add personality. The DB is inherently a bit bolder as it is seldom seen when compared to the SB; whether the Navy suit is read as conservative, vintage, dandy, or slouchy again depends on the rest of your choices. 

However, you also can’t forget about the physical effect of the two closures. A DB will always be just a tad more trussed up and dramatic compared to the neutral SB due to the inherent geometries of a  DB’s overlapping closure; this makes a Navy DB in particular quite an interesting garment to wear.  In the past, I’ve had two separate Navy Suits (bought at different times) for each configuration, but as of now, I prefer having two jackets for each suit pant. This isn’t just done for Navy Suits, but in this case, it’s about being able to utilize Navy in any matter I want, embracing the multitude of possibilities.

That being said, an interesting way to get the best of both worlds is to do a Navy SB suit with horizontal peak lapels. This certainly plays up the formality and dandy connotations with its sharp and streamlined aesthetic; it’s likely because this “feels” even more like a non-tuxedo. True Vintage examples, as well as Mark Cho’s epic Tailor Caid one, make me quite tempted to add a third variation to the mix, just for an even more nuanced version of the Navy Suit. I likely wouldn’t do this move in any other Color; Navy is special like that.

It’s funny how this blog post finally came about. At first, I assumed that I wouldn’t have much to say, seeing as how a Navy Suit is so “basic” and “easy”. But as I kept writing, the more I realized that a Navy Suit can be a surprisingly nuanced subject. A Navy Suit isn’t necessarily complex, but it does have depth– a depth that people have an affinity for and certainly recognize, even if it is instinctual. It’s almost like love, not in a romantic way but one that is explosively platonic: wholesome, secure, and uplifting. A Navy Suit is truly a friend that everyone deserves to have and should be excited to hang out with. 

That last part is the kicker. Despite all the other more “interesting” things found in classic menswear (brown suits, grey suits, gauchos, jungle jackets), I will always make time to wear my classic Navy Suit. I do not consider this “defaulting” nor do I take the Suit for granted. It is still an intentional garment that continually excites and inspires me, compelling me to use it to house intricate combinations and delve into aesthetic genres with ease. A Navy Suit can do all of it without insisting upon itself. That humility is why I love giving myself over to its power. 

It’s freeing to go Full Send and wear it as a Full Suit, to surrender to its dark and inviting waters. It’s almost to the point where it’s rare that I just wear the jacket. No, when I feel like wearing Navy, it’s as the full suit. When you give yourself over to Standing Out and Going Full Send, the Navy Suit makes a Navy Jacket (not a Navy Blazer, which is its own thing) feel like a half-measure in comparison. Separates are indeed dynamic and help keep Menswear alive and interesting, but a Navy Suit is about deliberately leaning into solace. We can always introduce a bit of complexity with what we choose to put between its lapels, but the result is always about illustrating harmony in its most platonic ideal, away from the preconceptions that characterize other types of suits. 

In that way, it seems that a Navy Suit isn’t just a tool of Classic Menswear. It is Classic Menswear, a garment that embodies the ideals and themes of what this style-genre is all about. A Navy suit should never be considered a restrictive uniform nor a braid-dead basic to throw on without care. It’s quite the opposite. 

A Navy Suit is a garment that thas oozes gravitas so naturally that it feels safe, uplifting the parts of the self that you want to express, ultimately helping you be whoever you want to be. A Navy Suit functions as a fertile field, ready to be filled with all the delicacies that Classic Menswear has to offer. It’s an invitation to delve into our creativity, to showcase the multitudes found within our personalities– our Taste – without any pretense. It is a perfect, platonic love. 

I love my Navy Suit. And when I wear it, it feels like it loves me back. That’s Navy for you.

– end of blog post –

My Use: Corporate (Or Reserved) Combinations

Chic

Rugged (Or Casual) Combinations

Trad, Ivy, and Preppy

Brocades & Vintage-Leaning Fits

Enclosing Fun Colors and Patterns

Doing It Casual

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The Podcast is produced by MJ.

Always a pleasure,

Ethan M. Wong (follow me on IG)

Big thank you to our top-tier Patrons (the SaDCast Fanatics), Philip, Shane, Henrik, Alexander, and Mason.