This is a recap-ish of the latest podcast episode. You can listen to the episode below before or after you read. That’s because I tend to expand on topics from the pod as well as straight-up write about things that we did not discuss. The choice is yours in how you want to proceed!
- Buck Mason – 8:22
- Drake’s – 13:30
- Tam O Shanter – 27:41
- Mad King George – 37:58
- Scott’s Wedding – 51:39
Buck Mason & Drake’s Pop Up
Before I go on, I do want to address a few Menswear things that occurred recently. After all, I do keep up with what’s going in the World…sorta!
A bit ago, I had a conversation with Teo on Instagram about my 70s Lee jacket, which is basically the classic 101J but in brown denim. We were discussing how he could find his own, but I knew it would be hard– before acquiring my own (for $35 at the flea a few years ago), I had no idea that Lee even made their jacket in brown. I just assumed they had the 101J and the Rider (both in indigo), as well as the cream Westerner, which is quite the grail for vintage menswear collectors.
I was then reminded that Buck Mason had that collaboration with Lee, which now has a Part Deux (pardon my French). Teo and I discovered that Buck x Lee has a 101J in mocha, which is close to my caramel one. That reminded me of a moment when someone at Buck asked me how I got my hands on a sample; I laughed and told him that my jacket was true vintage (and I’m also not a corporate spy). The collab also has one in cream as a direct shout to the classic Westerner (there’s also matching pants). Bryceland’s actually beat them to the punch with their own 101J (called the “Cash Jacket”), which is also done up in black, red, indigo check. Again, I’ve only owned vintage, but it’s cool that people have options on how to get what I think is the superior denim jacket design (Type 1 and 2 are okay, but I don’t really like Type 3s).
I also heard quite late that Drake’s came to Los Angeles for a pop-up trunk show. Funnily enough, it was held in the same space as the SFC one back in May (I didn’t cover it on the blog, sorry) – I guess that this Silverlake spot is the prime location for visiting menswear brands!
I wasn’t able to make it to the party, but I actually went late on Friday (before a friend’s birthday dinner) because Serhan wanted to check it out. As you have no doubt noticed, Serhan has become quite the menswear enthusiast, owning two custom SuSu suits (navy 4ply and khaki cotton) as well as selvedge jeans and bit loafers. He’s heard me mention Drake’s more than a few times over the years and wanted to check it out for himself.
To my surprise, Serhan was disappointed that the Drake’s crew didn’t bring any ties, but understood when Jack (from NYC) and Claudio (from London) explained that people seldom buy ties, especially in Los Angeles. After all, Drake’s is now known for their attitude toward menswear– they’re more than just a tie maker now!
We got to check out their chore coats (I prefer the old version with the pleated pockets, which I own), the overcoats, and handled their latest tapestry scarves (which lightly tempted Serhan). However, what really got his attention was the “Games Jacket” in navy cotton. Serhan’s only navy jacket was his DB suit jacket, and he’s been looking for a “casual”-ish jacket to wear when going out. The “Games Jacket” (Mark 1 to be specific) with its unstructured vibe, patch pockets, and heavy seam-stitching ended up being exactly what he was after, especially since he’s enjoyed the madras Engineered Garments chore-blazer I sold him a bit ago (it was just too big).
Serhan ended up wearing the jacket out of the trunk show and to our friend’s dinner (he didn’t get the pants because the matching pants were too slim and a bit too low of a rise). Unsurprisingly, it looked really great with what he was already wearing: a fun print sport shirt, selvedge jeans, and you guessed it, black bit loafers. He was finally seeing just how a jacket makes a look more dynamic; it also gives somewhere to fist your pockets.
Maybe someday Serhan will be the owner of a cool Drake’s tie, likely in a “soft square” foulard.
A Return To The Tam
One of the best uses of Free Will is to organize a big dinner with your friends for a random Thursday evening— and get dressed up for it!
This past Labor Day, a few of us were at Spencer’s dad’s house for the pool (quite a nostalgic vibe for sure), where we were discussing some of our previous hangs. From Spencer’s movie nights to Jay’s annual Friendsgiving and Friendsmas, we’re not exactly strapped for each other’s company. However, our reminiscence drifted to the time we celebrated Jay’s birthday at the Tam O’Shanter, the famous local steakhouse filled to the brim with Scottish and English paraphernalia. It’s such a fun place that is worth a regular visit if you live in LA! And so, after telling them that I had actually been semi-recently with the menswear guys, the Pool Gang decided that it was about time to go for ourselves. No rhyme or reason, just a random September Thursday for funsies!
Because this wasn’t exactly a big to-do, black tie was not required for this meal. I mean, black tie is never a thing at the Tam; it’s just a regular ‘ol restaurant. But everyone still dressed nicely! Jay went for a tonal look, likely as he’s been Buck Mason pilled, pairing their rather excellent cream M-43 pants with a vintage workshirt; he was a great match for Deb’s whites. Quinn came from work in a black suit (almost an echo of her pseudo-tux from Jay’s birthday), which was a somber accompaniment to Justin’s silk motif shirt; I was proud to see him still wearing the SuSu loafers he bought years ago for a wedding. Emily and Isabella both looked lovely in soft-toned blue and salmon dresses, respectively– warm weather means colors!
The rest of us (Spencer, James, and I) opted for wearing plaid to match the Scottish restaurant. As I always say, dressing up is always fun when you give yourself some direction! Spencer went for his typical uniform of a Navy jacket, jeans, and cowboy boots, but he did wear an earth-toned plaid workshirt– quite rustic! James also had a sporty look, donning a red plaid workshirt with his iconic grey SuSu suit. I, of course, was the most extra person there, simply because I did opt for a Black Tie look, wearing my DB tuxedo jacket with my madras trousers. They’re cuffed, but that’s okay, as the whole thing was “breaking rules” anyway. Plus, this rig made for a very 60s-summer-black tie look that absolutely fit the setting of this wholesome friend dinner (it also was mad comfy).
That evening also served as my inaugural wearing of the marcella front, wing collar tux shirt from Darcy Clothing. After wearing the soft, pleated variation (vintage Brooks) for a while, I felt that the pique front just “sold” the black tie attitude a lot better – it also looks more old-school. It’s actually quite comfortable, though I keep going back and forth on whether I’m going to shorten the sleeves, considering that Darcy’s shirts all have a standard length of 35. I feel like I will probably do it, considering that I shortened all of the Darcy spearpoints I bought in the same order (I did it because Scott wanted Darcy braces for his wedding suit).
I guess this did sort of serve as a celebration for my recent “freedom” from my first-ever gout attack that ravaged my big toe just the previous week. A big slab of red meat, a cocktail, and a sweet treat likely aren’t the best for someone fresh from an inflamed foot, but at the time of writing, things are thankfully okay. Maybe next time I’ll just choose to eat one of those things in one sitting.
But hey, I was with some of the loveliest people I know. That’s certainly an Occasion to eat up– and in a Marcella front wing collar shirt no less!
Mad King George in LA
It was pretty funny to see Jason in Los Angeles. He famously has no love for the West Coast, but unfortunately for him, a few trunk show appointments and some other friend catch-ups convinced him to make the trip out to California. I’m not complaining– I really wanted to see him! After all, Jason, like Brooks, is one of my menswear friends, but one where the friendship isn’t just about clothing. As some of you may remember from our Pandemic streams together, most of our conversations revolve around Normal Life Stuff and mutual interests that aren’t centered around the goings-on in the Menswear World or about constant copping.
Of course, Jason is still a menswear guy (we even talked about what that meant in conjunction with his Asian American heritage). His brand, Mad King George, has been going steady the past five years, which has only gotten more refined in expressing Jason’s Punk Rock attitude. His garms are dripping with it, with each suit combining the drama of ‘70s cool with slouchy ease to create a bold expression. Strong shoulders, nipped waists, and big pants abound in plush fabrics and vibrant colors, making Mad King George the choice for those similar to its founder, who can be found doing karaoke and variety shows when he’s not taking appointments at his studio in Long Island City. It makes sense that most of his clients are mostly those in entertainment or at least in creative spaces– especially those who don’t shy away from wearing a pink or green suit for fun. After all, if you’re buying from a guy who models his trunk show announcement after Tim & Eric, you’re probably a particular type of person (the best kind).
The MKG trunk show was held at the Line Hotel, a place that is quite close to many of the popular Ktown haunts. It is a bit of a funny choice, considering how most menswear brands (P. Johnson, J. Mueser) usually hold appointments at the famous Chateau Marmont. I guess Jason’s always gotta be a little punk!
I’d like to say that we all had a heart-to-heart catch-up with Jason in his room, but as you probably expected, it was mostly a bunch of jokes and commentary on current events. It made me feel quite nostalgic for those COVID lockdown streams, where the four of us would shoot the shit while we played Call of Duty. Personal updates were obviously shared, all in between Jason’s sardonic jabs at Los Angeles– East Cast vs. West Coast, indeed!
Jason was obviously dressed impeccably, taking the opportunity to showcase exactly what MKG is about. This is best illustrated in the silhouette, which features a strong shoulder and a draped chest that are accentuated by MKG’s trademarked wide peak lapels, both upturned and bellied, for a nod to 70s glamour. As you could expect, Jason’s trousers are high-waisted and double-pleated, but instead of slim thighs and flared legs that you would expect, his pants remain straight and wide, ending at what he said was a 24” opening. This combo is what makes MKG unique, as it isn’t just a 70s redux– it is simply the POV of what Jason’s taste is, whether that’s a 70s-esque jacket or a pair of trousers that take after Oxford bags. But the silhouette is only one half of the equation.
The suit was made from a gorgeous light brown Prince of Wales check in a medium weight, which was good for drape and certainly comfortable for LA. The pattern feels quite 70s, but thanks to the palette, it comes across a bit more reserved, at least until you take a closer look. In true Nutter fashion, Jason added edge taping and patch pockets made of similarly toned houndstooth, creating a subtle moire effect that truly makes for a special garment.
While I would’ve loved to see how Jason would pair a shirt and tie with this epic suit (triple pattern mixing anyone?), he kept things casual for this trip (after all, he was on vacation). A Bronson loopwheel tee was the move, with its heft and tight collar keeping things taut and presentable despite its low formality. Jason echoed this by wearing Salomons, which he said were the only shoes he brought on this trip. I gotta say, I really liked this move as it further subverts the footwear you would have expected on such an outfit (like a chunky loafer or heeled boot). Jason and MKG are great examples of Forced Versatility in action!
Since our visit overlapped with a trunk show appointment, we got to see Jason in his element. The client even graciously allowed the three of us to stick around the small room and encouraged us to share our thoughts while he built his commission; perhaps Jason should have hired us as sales support!
As you could expect, the biggest part of the conversation was the cloth selection. Jason only brought a small handful of fabric books, which all showcased what MKG is about. I’m talking plaid 4ply wools, vibrant cords, and plush velvet cottons. The client knew that he wanted a very MKG suit, so we all steered him toward a velvet, specifically in pink– quite a masterful move. The pink velvet was accented with a tonal pink satin for edge taping in the jacket only; we agreed that adding the stripe down the side of the pants would have made it feel too “tuxedo-y”.
It really was cool to see just how easy it is to work with Jason and get a Mad King George garment. There is direction in boldness! You don’t go to MKG to get something traditional or business-oriented. No, you go to Jason to make something loud, something you could wear not just to your wedding but to a movie premiere…or a random Thursday night dance party. This specific attitude is what makes it so easy and natural, provided that you were already drawn to the brand. I’m sure on some deep level, that client knew that he was going to walk out of there with a receipt for a plush pink suit.
We all had to leave after the appointment concluded. Unfortunately, MJ and Spencer weren’t free to hang out again, but I was fully ready to take Jason and his wife out on typical Ethan shenanigans. And by that, I mean boba and karaoke, which we gleefully did at my favorite SGV haunt that is literally a boba shop with private karaoke rooms. Joseph, James, and Claire all showed up to support, which, when combined with Jason and Tamara, made for an evening of Abba, Cher, alt rock, pop-punk, 2010s pop, and a hearty helping of Broadway. As always, it was a wholesome and lovely evening. Thankfully, it wasn’t too late, as I was set to take Jason and Tamara (as well as their friend Hallie) to the Long Beach Flea Market the next morning.
I felt pretty good about this flea, likely because this one is a fair bit smaller than the Rose Bowl, so it doesn’t feel as overwhelming or fatiguing. That being said, the group started by checking every booth…at least for the first row. After the first turn, they simply walked more briskly, only stopping if something caught their eye. There wasn’t really a shopping list, especially since whatever they bought would have to fit into their carry-on, but Tamara did end up nabbing a nice knit top from the ’60s. I was really only looking at art, of which Long Beach has a bit more of (and certainly cheaper than Rose Bowl, but I didn’t walk out with anything…outside of a vintage pith helmet for $20. It was an impulse buy for sure, but I guess for a future cosplay or perhaps a fun take on black tie, the hat would certainly come in handy.
After a semi-late lunch at In-N-Out (how LA of us!) and a latte at one of the Long Beach cafes that I frequent, I took the three of them back to Koreatown, where they had just a few more hours before their flight back to NYC (where they would apparently land at 6 AM– crazy!). The drive to and from Long Beach was actually quite fun, because that’s where Jason and I were able to catch up properly, as well as further get into the nuances of life and geography in Los Angeles. A lot of it was me explaining how a certain town is 25+ miles away and still a part of Los Angeles County. “It’s just like New York, where friends and neighborhoods are 30 minutes away, but instead of a neighborhood, it’s an entirely new city with its own mayor, neighborhoods, and everything. And also, in those 30 minutes, you’ve driven past 15 other cities.”
Jason and Tamara would rather die than move to LA, but I hope that they come back soon! I could always use more friends to sing with until my voice goes hoarse. I definitely think that LA is a prime market for Mad King George, so if more people show interest, that’s a great reason for Jason to return. The City of Angels needs more velvet and satin!
Scott’s Wedding
We finish off today’s blog-pod with a recap of Scott’s wedding. I’ve been teasing this for a while, from recounting the rental suit fitting experience to the San Diego and Top Golf Bachelor shenanigans. Now it was time for the big day!
I can’t understate how big an event this is, not just for menswear purposes but for my life in general. Prior to this, I had only been to a handful of weddings, most of which were through my ex’s family. In other words, no one from my main friend group had gotten engaged until Scott and Lorelei. Now, I was set to be a Best Man (a first for me) and a lot of these pals (from high school/college) have been in long-term relationships with more bells ringing in the horizon. I’ve officially entered that stage of life. I was both nervous and excited…and obviously happy for two of my oldest friends to finally tie the knot. I’ve known Scott since 2008, and he’s been with Lorelei since 2010— this is a big deal!
Okay, this is a menswear blog, so let’s get back to the turkey (which apparently can also trigger gout, so I will consume it with caution).
Weddings are incredibly fascinating to me as a menswear guy because they are one of the top three External Occasions that get brought up (the other two are funerals and job interviews). I seldom attend any of these things (probably a good thing in the case of funerals), so most of my attire is entirely self-dictated. But despite being a fan of making my own Occasions, and as a result, my own dress codes or themes, I do enjoy the challenge of adapting my expression to an External Occasion like a wedding. However, it’s taken to a whole new level when you’re in the wedding party. Not only do you need to adhere to the concept of “wedding attire”, you now have to match the groomsmen in the bride and groom’s desired palette.
Usually, this means satin ties and some sort of ill-fitting rental suit (or worse, a waistcoat), the easiest way for the groomsmen to match and express the color-theme of the event—certainly a cause for concern for any seasoned menswear enthusiast. But to my surprise, Scott and his fiancée actually asked me to help them put the groom’s and groomsmen’s attire together. And best of all, they definitely didn’t want the outfits to look too “prom”– no satin ties allowed. Phew!
In the end, we went for a classic wedding look: a navy suit, white shirt, black shoes, and grey/silver plaid neckwear, just to keep things interesting. It’s a conservative and elegant combination, one that works for both the wedding party and for guests, and I’m glad that Scott and Lorelei went for it; they especially liked that the ties had a pattern, keeping the look from being too “solid-y”. The groomsmen and I all ended up wearing a grey Prince of Wales plaid tie from The Tie Bar, which was actually decent quality for its price (I didn’t want to make everyone pay for a typical Big Menswear brand), and tied a good dimple. To have Scott stand out but still “match”, he and I opted for a similar checked diamond point bowtie from Vanda, which looked fantastic. He and Lorelei were slightly concerned that it would contrast too sharply with the bridesmaids’ peach dresses, but that’s where the boutonniere came in!
For the suits, Scott and I initially floated the idea of everyone getting a custom suit from Suit Supply. Scott actually came out to see the MTM process earlier this year when Serhan and James were getting fitted, and he was intrigued by my own navy 4-ply suit, particularly because it was lightly textured, breathable, wrinkle-resistant, and, most of all, matte (he definitely didn’t want anything too shiny). To my surprise, Scott was actually down to get a custom suit himself and in the DB configuration, no less! This would help him stand out to the other groomsmen who would be in SB jackets. I also mentioned that the DB, with the bowtie, would come across as a bit black tie adjacent (or call it to mind) and ultimately look quite refined.
As you can see, Scott’s custom DB came out amazing, all thanks to Jack (and me, of course) – Scott even got a custom shirt, done up as a point collar, to work with his bowtie. It was surreal to see my pal all “menswear-ed” out in a soft-shouldered jacket (with wide lapels) and high-rise trousers! I think Scott liked it too, seeing as he had never seen a suit fit him this well before– that’s the power of custom and a good fitter. The hope is that he’s able to wear this suit for years to come. After all, he already wore the jacket as a blazer when we went to Top Golf!
The groomsmen’s suits were a bit trickier. As expected, not everyone was down to get a SuSu suit, which I think is a fair sentiment– even though it is a good entry-level suit, Suit Supply RTW and MTM is still quite expensive, especially if you don’t really need a suit daily. After looking around, we all decided on using the Black Tux, mainly because you could see the cloth and get sized up in person instead of just looking at the website. The boys got the “widest” fit (labeled as classic) and in the darkest navy wool possible, but we were all plenty aware that the slim lapels and trim trousers were going to contrast with Scott regardless. That was fine, as the Black Tux was cheap (less than $200) and Scott was the man of the hour anyway! And outside of a few fit issues (most of the jacket sleeves were too long), I think the guys looked good, though that’s probably due to the cool, plaid ties and the enveloping temperance of Navy.
Thankfully, Scott allowed me to use my Best Man status to wear my own Navy 4ply SB from Suit Supply– I didn’t have to spend any extra money! He reconciled it not just because the Best Man can stand out a bit (with my wider lapels, matte cloth, and full cut trousers) but also that it would be quite cute for him and me to “match” fabrics and echo each other’s vibe. We even both wore deco-stripe suspenders to double down on the “brothers” vibe. I also suggested it as a way to keep Scott’s look interesting when his jacket would undoubtedly come off during the reception. Waistcoats would have been too “prom” and certainly would have been a waste for a DB suit; he also would likely never wear the waistcoat again.
And as I look over the photos, I think it’s clear that we succeeded. Scott, the groomsmen– everyone looked fantastic. It’s never a requirement for any of my friends to dress up, let alone be as dandy as I am, but boy, was it nice to see the boys all dolled up! And the best part is that the suits didn’t get in the way of having fun. Plus, it just looks cool to let loose in a suit.
Scott and Lorelei’s wedding will be one of the best memories of my life. Being thirty, I do find it difficult to see these friends, simply because our lives have diverged since our time in high school and college. We obviously stay in contact through the internet, but we can’t escape that we live further away, have different careers, and ultimately have our own priorities in how we spend our time. I’ll take some blame for that, as I’ve really pulled away from playing video games as of late, which is how most of these guys stay together. But that’s why this wedding weekend had an extra special meaning for me. It felt nostalgic.
It was so funny to have all of the groomsmen share a hotel room and stay up on the computer (we had issues with the slide show) while we played dumb YouTube clips on the TV– it felt like we were finishing a school project all over again. Tack on an early morning subpar hotel breakfast and the guys asking me for help in pressing their suits, and suddenly I’m back in college. I also felt quite wistful seeing the handful of high school and college friends who were also in attendance, all of whom really filled out this sentiment of Nostalgia that I’ve been afflicted with this past year. Perhaps life would have been quite fine if I had never gotten sucked into the whole menswear thing!
We all laughed, ate, and danced the night away, celebrating Scott’s marriage to the love of his life. I didn’t even have anything to drink (I’m still conscious about my gout), but that didn’t stop me (and the guys) from belting out the lyrics to Mr. Brightside on the dance floor; I’m glad I felt compelled to record it, because that silliness will forever be a core memory for me. In fact, I couldn’t help myself and ended up snapping nearly a thousand photos of the day’s festivities– and I wasn’t even the official photographer! There’s just something about seeing people having fun that compels me to take a photo. And believe me, there was a lot of that happening that day. I even think that those snaps are some of my best documentary-style photos of all time.
Now that I think about it, it is exactly that unabashed absurdity that made this weekend great. As I’ve said before, it was these friends from high school and college who helped me be okay with Standing Out, mainly because they all Stand Out. We’re all silly little nerds! Being yourself with wild abandon around people who not only embrace it but encourage it is something we should all strive for. It’s even better when you find that in a partner, just like Scott and Lorelei did fifteen years ago. I’m so happy that I was able to be there and do my part for their big day.
And in terms of menswear (that is what this blog is about, right?), it was quite an honor to dress one of your best friends on his wedding day— especially when he’s down for it.
– end of blog post –
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Always a pleasure,
Ethan M. Wong (follow me on IG)
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a little bit of rest 