The Menswear in Dirty Rotten Scoundrels (1988)

As much as I enjoy traveling (especially when it’s to Italy), one thing that I do despise is the flight. There’s just something about sitting in one spot for five (or more hours) that irritates me. Maybe it’s anxiety! Maybe it’s just being antsy. Whatever the case is, it is something I dread. Sleeping, reading, and zoning out will only get me so far. When it comes down to it just end up watching things until we land! 

Selecting what to watch is a challenge. TV shows are a no go because you end up getting burnt out from binging or you’ll end up feeling short changed since you aren’t able to finish the entire narrative during your flight. That leaves movies. Do you watch something you’ve seen already? I usually don’t. The familiarity with the content ends up making me bored or at the very least, not overly consumed by the story so it doesn’t feel like I’m eating up any time. 

No, the only real answer is to watch something you’ve never seen before. But then you run the risk of giving yourself the disservice of experiencing kino on a tiny screen with [usually] horrible headphones. Isabel didn’t seem to have an issue with that when she watched Mad Max and E.T for the first time during our flight. I’m built differently. There needs to be something entertaining I can watch that isn’t exactly a masterpiece. And with the limited curation for in-flight content, there isn’t much.

Except of course for Dirty, Rotten Scoundrels.

I was intrigued by the poster that came up in my little Delta seat-back UI. It displayed Michael Caine and Steve Martin as you see them in the blog’s header image: suited up and toasting the viewer, almost daring you to watch this funny little flick (an alternate pose is directly above).  The story sounded compelling; two guys in suits trying to out-con each other on the French Riviera? Perhaps it was the fact that I was fresh from my own European jaunt (that definitely included tailoring), but I was sold immediately. I’m not going to say that I judged a book by its cover, but hey, two men in suits promising a hilarious time? That’s more than enough for a plane ride! 

Lawrence Jamieson, played by Michael Caine is a gentleman con artist, specializing in tricking wealthy female tourists out of a few thousand dollars when they come to visit his homebase of Beaumont-sur-Mer on the French Riviera. His consistent machinations are put to a halt when he meets Freddy Benson (Steve Martin) who is also putting his tricks to work (albeit in a much more messy way) among the unsuspecting women of this French town.  After an initial mentoring session (that is full of #menswear outfit changes and poses), the two enter into a bet where the winner of their target’s affections (Janet Colgate, played by Glenne Headly) gets to remain in town; the loser must leave.

The whole film was so funny. I’m normally a bigger fan of comedic dialogue or things that play up the absurdity, but seeing Steve Martin in his prime (doing his iconic physical comedy) was such a delight. Dirty, Rotten Scoundrels was a great choice for this plane ride. I can’t even recall the other things I saw!

Now the reason I decided to talk about this film is because the menswear is so good. I can’t remember the last time a comedy had great clothing (and that wasn’t just you know a movie from the 1930s-1970s). No, DRS is exceptionally well done and is sure to provide inspo for all you menswear heads reading this. 

Jamieson is the real #menswear guy simply because he’s meant to be a cultured British man who just happens to be a con artist. As a result, he wears British trad attire though adapted for the French Riviera; that means less tweeds and more linens and linens. He displays a penchant for Double Breasted 4 x 2 closure, having it be used across his suits, blazers, and his tuxedo. That’s quite a rakish move for a more “modern” film character, but this was also used by Griffin Mill in The Player, Jamieson tends to wear his DB blazer with a blue a stripe shirt and regimental block stripe ties and with geometric ties (and  plain shirts) when it comes to his suits.

Above all, it’s nice to see a well dressed, wealthy character that is actually quite classic and  isn’t overly dandy. I’m looking at  you Mortdecai

Benson also gets to wear some tailoring. When he’s under Jamieson’s tutelage, he gets to wear DBs and striped ties of his own, though his is done as a “normal” 6×2 perhaps as a way to differentiate the two sartorial gentleman. During his guise as Ruprecht, he rocks a country-esque look that is meant to be silly: a brown suit and string bowtie. With his white socks and loafers (which are carried over from Benson’s regular look) he does look like what influencer chef Matty Matheson tends to dress like. But none of this is what Benson is normally in.

As an uncouth and sloppy American, Benson’s uniform is a straw fedora, pastel crewneck tee shirt, some mid wash jeans (probably Levis 501s), white socks, two tone loafers, and a linen jacket in a light pinstripe. When you look at the jacket closely, it appears to have a padded shoulder and a very low buttoning point (with only one button). It’s very 1988, which makes sense.

With 2023 eyes, both outfits feel quite contemporary. Benson is a touch above normcore, being almost like a vintage J. Crew or Ralph ad that many guys are pulling inspiration from. The mere fact that he’s wearing two tone loafers is sure to get viewers giddy for Blackstock and Weber. Jaimeson’s attire leans more into “classic and timeless”, but the trad look would definitely fit in today, even if it is a little bit dressy. Perhaps that’s just my biases coming through, as I always think that tailoring looks best with a specific POV. I’m glad that Jaimeson isn’t just wearing a regular ‘ol suit, which is probably what the DRS’s costumers had in mind. 

I really got inspired by the film especially because I don’t wear these types of outfits often. Obviously tees, jeans, and jackets are a rare occasion for me, but going English trad/rich guy (like the guys who are photographed in the Allen Warren’s Duke’s of Britain) is also not something I do; I tend to go Esquire Man or Frasier (Armani?) when I wear a tie.  In the end, one of my outfits that I wore right when I got back was a blazer with a striped tie, clearly modeled after Jaimeson. 

IMG_4188

Anyway, I hope you enjoy a few screenshots from the film! I’ve also included a few photos of the original version of this movie: Bedtime Story (1964). I haven’t seen that version, but it looks like it has a few fun fits worn by Marlon Brando (who plays Benson) and David Niven (who plays Jamieson). You’ll see that the 60’s-Benson’s move of wearing a straw hat and blazer was clearly adapted for the DSR version, though 60’s-Jamieson feels rather boring since he wears a normal suit for the period. 80’s-Jamieson at least has a clear POV in his attire.

This whole film is discussed in the latest bonus episode of the podcast! We obviously get into a lot more in that episode (and a lot of it isn’t just about the movie) but we hope you feel inclined to subscribe on Patreon to listen. I don’t even think we discuss anything even close to the movie during the short preview that Producer MJ has included for you below, but here it is regardless.

DB tuxedos are the move. We should bring them back!
A very 80s trad look that incredibly doesn’t look yuppie!
Color coordination with his block stripe tie and geometric print pocket square. Also note the gold cufflinks and gold watch.
A green tie this time. Also the dark khaki (almost taupe) trouser is underrated IMO.
A slightly darker green pocket square.
This is quite Esquire Man!
Check out Jamieson’s white loafers with the gold buckle. A little too bold for his character but it does add a bit of panache.
Tuxedo again.
Grey suit with a purplish-grey tie and black tassel loafers. Very Ethan!
It almost appears like his shirt is pleated.
A lounge look with a DB cardigan and white linen shirt worn with a runaway collar.
If only this was a proper sportshirt but alas, it has a collar band.
The full suit again.
Not a fan of this tie.

A blazer, khakis, and an open shirt to finish the movie. I wonder if his tie-less appearance is indicative of character development. Benson wears what he always has: a pastel shirt, jeans, and a linen jacket.

The first shirt we see Benson seems to be a faded merch shirt; you can just barely make out a stencil. Could it be an old army shirt?
Straw hat and two tone loafers!
When Benson gets his first big score, he goes all out with a pinstripe short-suit, fisherman sandals, and an aloha shirt. That’s quite menswear to me!
The jacket has a shawl lapel. That’s crazy!
Note the thin belt!

A striped tie!
I want more of this. White pants and a blazer is quite cool!
Croquet clothes. If only they hemmed the pants properly…
Striped shirt and geometric tie? That’s all me baby!
#menswear be like
I like the difference in evening attire. Jamieson wears a tux while Benson has a black suit, white shirt, and a dark geometric tie. That’s cocktail attire.
Another variation here. His jacket has a low buttoning point but it is ultimately proportional!
Love that green tie! I also love #pocketfisting.
This might have been a deleted scene. I rather like the cream tie worn by Jamieson; I just need to challenge myself to wear mine more!
Ruprecht is supposed to be a buffoon, but this is quite a look. I even think that shirt is a western. one due to the glow of the snaps.
This is contemporary menswear.
Western shirt yet again, though this one is bolder due to the design and the metal hardwear on the collar points.
The DB suit with a red striped tie.

An elevated (and much more 80s) version of what we’ve first saw Benson in.
Still quite a look that I’d get some inspiration from. Reminds me of our pal Zach!
A wild shirt worn during the wheelchair sequence.
He brings back the cotton jacket and green tie but now adds a tonal shirt.
The muted color scheme isn’t bad, I’d definitely try it.
DB Tuxedos in this promo image! Interesting that Benson’s has covered buttons but Jamieson’s doesn’t.
It’s the beginning of a beautiful friendship.
Andre, the local police inspector and Jamieson’s compatriot, wears some Esquire Man-esque outfits simply due to the patterns at play.
A tiny button down collar but at least the tie is proportional!
Andre dresses quite well.

Crazy shirt, but it works!
Maybe I need a pinstripe suit…
Arthur gets a shawl collar mess jacket.
The original film: Bedtime Story. Imagine thinking that a buffoon’s attire is a powder blue blazer with an ascot! The newer version definitely has more distinct costuming.
Dressing gowns are nice.

Instead of a DB tuxedo, Jamieson wears a shawl collar dinner jacket.
A straw hat its only worn by sloppy Americans.
Two tone, lazy man shoes? So cool!
This must be the 60’s version of the wacky outfit that Benson gets arrested in after his shopping spree.
Ruprecht!
Both are a menswear mood.
If feel like you could see these fits at Alfargo’s.

Don’t forget to support us on Patreon to get some extra content and access to our exclusive Discord. Oh and don’t forget, we do a podcast every two weeks!

Buh-bye!

EthanMWong | StyleandDirection

The Podcast is produced by MJ.

3 comments

  1. D'Angelo's avatar
    D'Angelo · August 29, 2023

    I’m really loving the distinguished gentlemen look for Sir Caine. He wears it well…

    Like

  2. Pingback: The Fun & Colorful Vintage-Inspired Menswear in Dick Tracy (1990) | a little bit of rest
  3. Pingback: The Menswear In South Pacific (1958) | a little bit of rest

Comment Away!