Here it is at last, coverage of my recent trip to Japan. I was initially going to split this post up, but ultimately decided to keep it as one master post. After all, there is no difference between visiting menswear stores and a vacation spent hanging out and eating with friends. The two are intertwined wherever I go! Life is a part of menswear, and menswear is a part of life. Stories of menswear abroad don’t just need to be dispassionate shop recommendations (though I do use them lol) or be predicated on the industry. No, I want to show people that it’s perfectly possible to be fitted up for fun on a trip and make time to see some stores, all while enjoying the sights, sounds, and libations with your beloved travel companions.

And so here we are, a monograph (monolith?) of everything I did on this amazing trip.

As some of you may know (do I even have new readers anymore?), I’ve been to Japan before, way back in 2019. It was the best trip I had ever taken because it embodied everything I wanted from a vacation. As with most trips, I traveled with my extended family, so we spent most of our time at cultural must-sees, tours, and novelties like Fushimi Inari and the infamous Shinjuku Robot Restaurant. This vacation was also one of the first trips when I was firmly an adult, so I had the confidence to explore on my own and visit all the stores and people I wanted to (and boy, there were a lot of them). I had certainly done some of that when I was in London and Paris a few years prior, but Japan was where I had the ultimate agency; being extremely walkable and easy to navigate certainly was a boon (it also helped that my family planned more free time for this one).  In retrospect, 2019 was also the time I was pretty much the Ethan you’ve all come to know. My taste/style had leveled out and remained consistent, and I had embraced my facial hair—longer, messy locks, Safincore, and riding boots would come a bit later. 

In a funny way, that 2019 Japan trip was a milestone for me, serving as both an end and beginning to a certain period of my life. And while I’m largely the same person that I was seven years ago, it’s hard not to reflect on just how much has actually changed as I write this reflection on my most recent trip. After all, this trip was indeed very different from the one I took in 2019, namely because I had better hair…and the fact that I was not going with family. Well, not blood family at least! 

Yes, you heard it right, the trip made it out of the group chat!  We originally had more people, but in the end, seven of us (including myself) were able to plan an international trip, with much of it actually spent together. I was initially quite surprised, knowing just how hard it can be to make plans in your late 20s and early 30s, even for something as simple as drinks or coffee. But perhaps it shouldn’t have been surprising, considering just how many pals actually do show up and participate in the various Whimsical activities that end up being recorded on and off this blog. I am indeed quite lucky to know a handful of people who are always down.

It likely helped that a few of us had been to Japan before. This quality actually put less pressure on the trip, as it removed a handful of the cultural and novelty spots that most people visit on their first visit. We still had some repeats (Disney TokyoSea) and other major attractions we’d never been to before (the deer of Nara), but, like my 2022 trip to NYC, our goal was simply to hang out—just in Japan.  Yes, I was still set on visiting a few menswear shops (going to an actual Paraboot store to get properly Michaels was the only must-buy) and seeing enough to cover how the landscape has changed, but it wasn’t my intention to see everything. I am not an actual menswear journalist or a proper content creator! I was just going to see whatever happened to be around, what my friends and I already had planned (but yes, I did venture out on my own a few times). 

That friend part is truly what made this trip special. I’ve never actually traveled much with friends before! Spencer and I have been to SF and NYC before, but that was a while ago, and we haven’t done anything since; I’ve also been on one trip with a past partner. I’ve mainly traveled with family or by myself, with the company in the latter being the people who reside in my destination. This trip was set to be a completely new experience, a milestone encapsulating my life as an adult thus far. This trip was wholesome and quite whimsical, full of new experiences that were totally in line with what my friends and I like to do. The vacation was full of crowded bars with cheap, delicious drinks, artisanal shops, bookstores, cultural sites (most of which I did on my own), and yes, more than a soupçon of menswear. It literally didn’t get any better than this!

It also goes without saying that I was also heavily excited to take photos during this trip. It’s not that I haven’t taken photos on vacation before, but it’s pretty obvious that I’ve really delved deeper into this hobby; the fact that most of my recent output has been in the landscape orientation and in black-and-white (two things that some would argue are more “artsy”) is evidence of that. In any case, I was ready to take plenty of photos, both of sights I had been to before (a great way to see how much my style has changed over the years) and of all the new things I had yet to experience. As you could expect, I came back to our accommodations each night with hundreds of snaps to edit. That was fine; I barely slept on this trip anyway.

Before I get into the actual recap, I should talk a bit about what I packed. It’s nothing special; in fact, there’s a bit of a rig or template (dare I say uniform) at play here, especially if you compare it to my other spring/summer weather trips (think Hawaii) I’ve been on. In other words, it’s rayon shirts, a handful of workshirts (when I actually want a collar band), striped tees, fatigues (and jeans), and big pleated shorts.  Shoes were my loafers and canvas deck shoes (and yes, I did buy Paraboots when I was there). Jackets took the form of my trusty DB blazer (when I wanted to dress up) and my red Drake’s chore coat (back when it was called an overshirt), which you may remember from my trip to Italy. 

The one newcomer for this trip was my fisherman vest, which actually came in quite handy on hot days, both functionally (all the pockets!) and aesthetically (it makes an easy, dynamic fit without being a fully sleeved jacket). I’m still getting used to it (hell, I may still dye it navy), but it was amazing to wear. The vest came in clutch on the plane, with its plethora of pockets that held my glasses, cables, earphones, and more, eliminating the need to dig through the tote under my seat. The same principle applied when we were out and about; my particulars were strapped to my body, leaving my tote free to hold souvenirs or the one book I would occasionally bring out on the metro. 

I’ve already made peace with the fact I’ll never dress on vacation the way I do on a normal day in LA, unless, of course, I bring a giant check-in luggage full of suits (or jackets/trousers), striped shirts, and foulard ties. That being said, I did bring one tie (and an indigo scarf) to add a bit of “Ethan flair” to my pared-down vacation wardrobe. It’s not a suit, but I still gotta feel like me,  even on vacation! 

And honestly, I enjoyed all of my outfits on this trip! It was all rather simple but still quite interesting, either thanks to the rayon shirt (the yellow one was a great one) or the fun, big pants/shorts; details definitely matter.  The vibe was a decided mix between midcentury casual and some abstraction of prep by way of Amekaji, which was amplified when I bought a madras cap from Beams+; the damn thing was worn frequently on this trip and nearly became my personality (I did swap in my bucket and beret as well). In a way, this trip allowed me to delve further into and even celebrate my casual tastes, at least the side that isn’t predicated on the sleek vibes of the 70s or Going Out attire.  As you guys know, I easily “default” to something Apparel Arts-related when at home, even if I’m doing nothing in particular. I like to remind myself that I can stay dressin’ without leveraging a jacket and tie— and even if I’m limited to living out of a carry-on suitcase for two weeks!  

Despite that, outfits didn’t really catch anyone’s eye; given Japan’s already stylish baseline and high taste level, I wasn’t anything all that special (though some keen-eyed people did point out my vintage “Man In the Maze” belt buckle).

The Vacation Part

Now let’s get into this truly epic trip. 

I had initially expected to buy Paraboots as soon as I got off the plane…or rather, when I got off the plane and the train to our Airbnb. Unfortunately, in true tourist fashion, Serhan and I took the wrong train— the Keisei Main Line—which hit every station from Narita to our stop in Ueno. What should have been an hour-long ride was effectively doubled. Another hilarious moment arose when transferring to a Shinjuku train, and we accidentally took a detour through a department store; it felt like we had slipped into the Backrooms (or at least refrigerator city)!

We eventually found our Airbnb (as well as our trip compatriots, who had arrived a few hours earlier) and immediately headed out for a little drink and a bite in Shinjuku. The streets were full of locals enjoying their Saturday night out, either at the numerous izakayas or simply walking (and smoking) to their next destination. The bustling evening energy reminded me of the alleys in Florence and, certainly, a bit of New York—quite a new experience for this Angeleno. There were plenty of options for a stop, but our six-person group quickly ran into a problem: we just had too many people to seat easily. We ended up circling for a while until landing at a surprisingly large (for Japan) gyoza place that eagerly sat us all together. That plate of gyoza and chilled yuzu sour (which became my drink of choice, as I have lowered my beer intake since being diagnosed with gout) went hard as my first meal in Japan. Unfortunately, the jet lag hit even harder; I remember waking up numerous times between 2 and 5 AM, fighting every instinct in my body not to open my eyes and my phone. 

The next morning, after sampling the onigiri and curry bun selection at the Lawson’s around the corner (and eating in a quaint park), we headed out to something ridiculous and perfectly on theme for this geeky ensemble: a Harry Potter experience. Rather than immersing you in the “wizarding world”, the place was focused on the craft of filmmaking, which, as a fan of “da movies” in general, I really enjoyed. By highlighting the artisans and the numerous details they had created (and featuring the sets from the franchise), it actually felt more interesting than Universal Fan Fest nights. (It also goes without saying that HP has nothing on Cosmus Academy.) Unfortunately, the only wizardy thing I had on that day was my indigo scarf, though I think my fatigues, deck shoes, and navy blazer still leaned a bit prep. 

Nerdy shenanigans and a healthy dose of butterbeer only sustained us for so long, especially since we were still quite jet-lagged. We sauntered off to Ginza, where I had my first sample of menswear, after eating some wagyu, of course. It was there that I finally obtained my chunky French shoes and where Serhan and James refreshed their OCBD wardrobe with some “Vintage Ivys” from Kamakura. I even perused Ships, found a local English-style custom shoe maker, and popped my head into Kapital (or one of them). The streets and stores were full of shoppers, local and foreign; it was clear that being into clothes is bigger than ever before. Ginza soon proved to be too overwhelming, and we hightailed it back to our Airbnb, but not before drinking beer and konbini eats in our local park, doing our best not to be distracted by the two couples also there, clearly having a late-night flirt-fest. 

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Oddities continued the next day in Harajuku, where, at James’s instance, we went to “Kawaii Monster Land”, a rather wholesome entertainment cafe/restaurant from producer and artist Sebastian Masuda. While the appeal comes from the “Instagram museum” vibe, it ultimately felt more geared to kids (as opposed to the all-ages bash of the now-gone Robot Restaurant in Shibuya), who were the main audience on this particular Monday. I at least got to eat some breakfast, in the form of a colorful burger kebab that was styled to look like a silly ice cream cone. 

The kawaii vibes continued with visits to two separate animal cafes, one for owls and the other housing ferrets (which happen to be one of my favorite animals). It was hard not to beam brightly when cuddling those swirly little guys, who, as I was told by their careful handlers, spend nearly all of their day sleeping. Hanging with these critters, as well as the vintage vibes of the Harajuku neighborhood, was what I dressed for (not the punky monster land), as I donned  a dark sport shirt, military chinos, and trusty fishing vest, swathing my neckline with my indigo scarf. 

Our group split up for breathing room, and I took it upon myself to sample a few of the vintage and specialty shops with Serhan and Bristol in tow. Full Count and Indian Motorcycle were a few standouts, though I did get my first sample of the current second-hand market in Japan, which I’ll get into later. The Engineered Garments store was small and fascinating, but there wasn’t anything tempting; I had lightly hoped that there would be a designer-y cape for me to buy, but no dice (I also never found a cape the rest of my trip). Unfortunately, since it was Monday, Bryceland’s was closed, so I had to skip it until the third leg of my trip.  It just meant I had more time to spend at Beams+ Harajuku, which, as I discuss later in this post, was probably my favorite store of the entire trip. It just had such a huge, full-service selection of clothes that were all so interesting and full of personality; things that I wanted out of any purchase and experience on this trip. 

A big part of my appreciation of Beams+ was indeed the garms, but also the time spent talking with Kitano, who helped me out each time I went to Harajuku. We bonded over our obsession with menswear, which he told me was a bit of a prerequisite to work at Beams+. He even told me that you have to take multiple tests and interviews to be a shopkeeper there, which no doubt ensures that the taste level and customer service at a historic store remain high. But the most surprising part of our conversation was when he recounted his stories from his visit to LA a few months prior. Not only did Kitano get to eat at In-N-Out, but it seems that he had a chance to go to 4100 Bar and even got to pop into the infamous Jumbo’s Clown Room. It really seems like Kitano had a full (and proper) LA experience! 

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After photographing the current Beams+ Harajuku staff (and showing them a similar snap from 2019), I ventured onward toward Shibuya. Since 2023, I’ve become quite the vinyl-head, and so a jaunt in the multi-story Tower Records was a must, even though I didn’t plan to buy anything; transporting records internationally was bound to be a hassle. It was truly a magical place, particularly for its selection of second-hand jazz and folk records, which obviously included a swath of Japanese pressings. Against my better judgment, I ended up picking up two albums. I also made sure to check out the classical section, which, as expected, was much quieter than the main floors, with one elderly man shopping whilst Glenn Gould’s Goldberg Variations reverberated softly from the ceiling speakers. And so, in the spirit of decided Pretension, I also purchased a “Tower Classical” tee, as well as a recording of Williams conducting the Saito Kinen Orchestra, the world-famous ensemble started by Seiji Ozawa and Kazuyoshi Akiyama. 

A quick vibe shift into a Star Wars pop-up nearby (likely for the release of The Mandalorian & Grogu) to see premium SH Figuarts figures and manga-art tees (that ridiculously put the graphic on the back of the shirt) completed my Shibuya excursion. Unfortunately, I would not be able to return to this area later in the trip. That was fine, as I wasn’t all that taken with the local 2nd Street, which, back in 2019, yielded Alden shoes and tailoring from United Arrows and Ships.

Thanks to a truly epic bout of miscommunication, the group met up for soba in Jimbocho, of all places (it was too late to go into any bookstore), before heading back to Shibuya for cocktails. Wild, I know. The first bar was one that James and Jimmy had been to on their last trip, The Legless Arms, our first proper “dive” that, wouldn’t you know it, also happened to be full of couples. After a few beers and a novel indoor smoke, James’s friend Kitty (who had moved to Japan last year for school) took us to The Whales of August, a more “formal” bar (the bartenders all wore waistcoats and ties) that served cocktails based on movies— nothing more “Ethan” than that! Their menu was extensive to say the least, featuring concoctions inspired by flicks like The Grand Budapest Hotel and Some Like it Hot, to Marty Supreme of all things, but if a movie wasn’t on the list, they invited you to share your preferred title and get something made on the spot.

I immediately offered up one of my favorites, North by Northwest, and after some deliberation behind the counter, they brought out my drink. I initially assumed it would be a gimlet, which is what Thornhill orders in the train car, but, naturally, the drink was bourbon. How could I forget! 

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We all had at least two cocktails there before pushing ourselves to go home and sleep. The next day was DisneySea (the better of the two Tokyo Disneylands), and we needed to wake up early in order to get there on time. Thankfully, we weren’t all that hungover, and our fantastical excursion was as delightful as expected!

I had been to this coastal adventure-themed park with my family before, and thanks to its small size and the rain that day, I was able to ride nearly everything and even see a live show. This time, however, the sun was out, and so the park was rather busy; there was also the fact that DisneySea had a new land centered on fantasy properties (like Frozen and Tangled). There was so much to do and so much less time (the park closes early on weekdays), so we ended up buying “fastpasses” to bypass the long lines (nearly everything took at least an hour). It was worth it, as these were indeed among the newest developments in ride technology. We were particularly taken with the Peter Pan ride, which was an exponential improvement (to say the least) on the static (but oddly popular) Disneyland version. 

Once we had our fill of saccharine Disney vibes, the group went back to Shinjuku to meet up with Kitty again and eat a sashimi dinner. This was when Jimmy revealed to us that he had never tasted sashimi before, let alone sushi or even gyoza; it was a blessing and a curse to have his first time be in Japan. The megasize lemon sours were apparently not enough for this group, and so Kitty dropped us off nearby at Mon Cherie, a basement-level shot bar. Our bartender was Canadian and was immediately taken by us, his Yankee cousins. His pours were heavy and even treated us to a surprise shot of 192-proof Spirytus Rektyfikowany, which surprisingly went down quite smoothly. I had no idea what it was until after the gasoline-esque liquid glazed my gullet. Again, this type of evening may not have been wise for those who needed to pack and take the Shinkansen to Osaka the next morning (or even those who spent the day at Disneyland), but we were just fine. 

This Osaka ryokan was to be our home base for the next few days.  We arrived in the early evening, and because the inn was right near Dotonbori, we went right back out. By this, I meant that we had some dessert and a beer, played some games at the local arcade (and occasionally took a chance on the gachapons). An easier night was much needed! 

Another early morning took us, as we had booked an 11 AM chopstick-making class in Kyoto. An hour or so train ride later and a nearly 20-minute walk through a winding suburb, and we were there! The experience was certainly tourist-focused, but we all had a fun time working with our hands to produce a fun (and practical) souvenir. I opted for Torben wood for its darker color and shaved it down into a rounded stick. It was said that this wood was one of the more difficult materials to shave (as it is sturdier and more resistant), but thankfully, I didn’t take too long to finish! 

We then traipsed around Hoshinocho, looking for snacks to sustain us and curios to bring home. The former materialized as a menchi katsu bun (amazing) and a cup of watermelon and vanilla ice cream, while the latter came in the form of bird-themed postcards and prints from Karasuma Rokuhichido, a traditional Washi paper shop.  Serhan and I explored further, ending up at a surprisingly fruitful 2nd Street (more on that later) and the famous Hakuchikudo. I was in the market for a really good fan (a useful EDC, whether you’re in LA, NYC, or abroad), and, as luck would have it, they had a special denim collection in the men’s section! I walked out with a wonderful HBT variation, deciding against the intentionally (and beautifully) distressed options. Even now, I am still too cautious to use it, but rising LA temps (and upcoming Anime Expo) may push me to bring it out.

As the group agreed it was too late to visit Fushimi Inari (they wanted more light), we eventually wandered to Nishiki Market, where we all sampled various street-vendor food. Crab legs covered in mayo and spicy cod roe, as well as an order of sweet potato tempura, were perfect after a long day of exploring (and working with my soft, city boy hands). After venturing off to sample the menswear of Nishiki Market (particularly Jam Vintage and Loftman), as well as some cool stickers from B-Side, libations were needed. I suggested we check out Good Morning Record Bar, which sat right by a small river and was full of riveting energy thanks to the exceptional DJ spinning vintage vazz, samba, and disco. I made sure to give him plenty of smiling thumbs-ups while drinking Good Morning’s selection of draft cocktails; these would be the last novelty mixed drinks I would have for the rest of the trip. 

Wanting to keep the vinyl energy going, I split off a bit from the main group and found myself a short walk away at PM Sounds Record Bar. The owner, who later told me he spent six years in Torrance, made sure to tell me that this wasn’t a bar where you could talk loudly; I assured him that I was perfectly content to sit and listen to the 70s-80s selection he had on. It was a very chill night until the group remembered there was a last train to Osaka. We made it to Awaji station before the train rightfully kicked us off, forcing us to a lightly expensive Uber back to our ryokan. 

Even though I was tired and perhaps a little hungover from the sugary drinks, I couldn’t help but keep a smile on my face. That type of night was exactly what I wanted from Japan. After all, I didn’t drink much back in 2019…or was into vinyl. As I said before, this trip was about new things that I’ve always wanted to do! 

The next morning was spent in Nara, a destination I did not visit on my last trip to Japan. I was excited to see some deer! To get into the spirit of the park, I wore my yellow sport shirt, brown shorts, and red chore coat, looking like a proper 50s tourist; the vibe was again bolstered by my new purchases, the chunky Tyrolean shoes and the plaid madras cap from Beams+. How whimsical! All I was missing was a picnic, though it was probably wise not to do that, considering the hungry Cervidae that were roaming around.

As others have shared, the sacred Nara deer were graceful but oh-so aggressive, especially if you chose to feed them crackers. After seeing them chase James and Claire around, I was relieved that I opted out of that experience. Fortunately, there are plenty of unhungry deer chilling around to watch and pet. Serhan and I actually found a nice, quiet clearing where a group of elderly volunteers was feeding a small herd.  It was a welcome respite from the flurry of tourists in the main grounds near the road and train station. I kept the placid vibes going by taking a solo side quest to the Nara temples and treasure hall, where I took in the beautiful (and certainly ancient) architecture and carvings. Hard to believe that some of these were made in the 6th century!

We made it back to the Osaka ryokan in the mid-afternoon, where the girls opted to try the onsen while the boys shopped. It was here that I got to check out Osaka Beams+ (where I caught up with Fujii) and yet another Ships, where I took note of just how many fisherman sandals and string loafers I could find. Such footwear was alluring, but I couldn’t bear to buy more, especially given my Alden collection back home. I was probably just missing my full closet! 

Serhan, James, and I even visited Hinoya, where James struck out in sizing for selvedge bootcuts; I was personally tempted by new Sunsurf alohas (the best in the game, honestly) and a handful of military styles. At this point, my feet were kiling me (why did I ever think to break in footwear on this trip), and I ended up calling the girls to bring my Wakouwa deck shoes to dinner.

Rejuvenated by a hearty helping at a random izakaya away from the main part of Dotonbori, we then set out to find a bar. At this point, Jimmy was called up by a few strangers he had met on a 3 AM cig walk and set off to a local nightclub, with James and Claire tagging along with him (briefly, they assured us). I looked around yet again with the remainders (Bristol and Serhan) and found three promising spots that played great music: GIG’Ll (an Alternative bar) and “Folk Rock Bar Phoe~be”. All were great, but the last one was my favorite. We sat on vintage quilted seat cushions while the bespectacled, beret-wearing owner poured us some shochu and Paul Simon sang on vinyl. We had just made last call, and it was glorious. 

I should have bought that damn T-shirt. Yes, strangers, ask me all about Phoe~be Folk Rock Bar in Osaka!

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We ventured back out to Kyoto one last time in order to take in the iconic Fushimi Inari Shrine. 

Unfortunately for us, this was a typhoon day, and it was pouring rain, which didn’t start until we got to our stop. I had the foresight to bring along a small umbrella, but for some bizarre reason, that outfit I chose to wear was a bit too open: the second-hand SunSurf aloha (worn untucked and severely unbuttoned over a ribbed tank), M-43 cargos, and wakouwa deck shoes. I was drenched, especially because I took it upon myself to summit Mt. Inari, a journey that took nearly three hours. I had been to Inari back in 2019, but because it was our literal first day in Japan (we went to Kyoto immediately after landing at Haneda), I didn’t venture too far up. I wanted to change that and put some effort into something that wasn’t predicated on shopping. Thankfully, Bristol opted to join me, and we made it to the top, stopping numerous times along the way to enjoy the gates and shrines…and to catch our breath. It was worth it, though a small part of me was concerned about trench foot. Deck shoes prevent slips and aren’t waterproof! 

Serhan, who was in Kyoto but declined to go to Inari, was having a rather dry day visiting various Kyoto art museums, and I finally joined him once he got to MOMA. I enjoyed the collection but was particularly taken by the exhibit on Takehisa Yumeji’s depiction of urban life. Yumeji’s illustrations were striking yet natural, a great representation of 30s art. I ended up bringing home a book of the exhibition, as well as a few stickers and postcards as keepsakes (and to share with my girlfriend). And for you men’s fashion heads out there, the Kyoto MOMA also had a small feature on the Issey Miyake collection inspired by the work of ceramic artist Shoji Kamoda. Each of the garments on display had its color, texture, and proportions lifted from a matching Kamoda vest. It was truly beautiful!

After quite a cultural morning and afternoon, Menswear was back on the menu in the evening, not by way of shopping, but because we were meeting up with famous ivy-prep stalwart Benton. I met Benton once back in 2019, when he still lived in SF, and I was delighted to be able to catch up with him, in Japan no less! He now lives in Kyoto and has even started a fledgling tie brand that features some rather fantastic designs, including one with a Daruma whiskey crest motif!

We met up with Benton at a delightfully grungy, signature-adorned bar at the end of a long, indoor hallway. This was Tonkatsu Shimizu, and the owner brewed his own shochu in addition to cooking up the most delectable marinated pork cutlet sandos I have ever had. Just look at those photos— them boys were thick! The four of us (Bristol showed up too) chased those sandos (and the curry meatball soup, which came with our cover charge) with either four or five shochus, leaving us delightfully buzzed (or more) in that intimate watering hole. After some fun conversation, amongst ourselves (particularly about dating attire) and with two separate groups of locals who wandered in, James, Claire, and Jimmy showed up at last to head onto the next bar, which, to my surprise, was even more amazing than one, simply because the vibe was very Ethan.

This was because the bar that Benton suggested was Hachimonjiya, a beer, wine, and sake bar operated by renowned Osaka street photographer Kai Fusayoshi. Much like the plethora of old men I saw on this trip, Fusayoshi-san donned a practically stylish utility vest while serving drinks and spinning vinyl. The entire bar was full of his work, with a menagerie of photobooks, prints, and postcards strewn about the room, all available for patrons to peruse as they sat on benches and drank their chosen libations. Naturally, the only other tourists present were of the alternative/artsy persuasion and we bonded over a love of photography (one made me jealous of his Leica). After mustering up some courage after a tall bottle of cold beer, I (along with Benton’s assistance) asked Fusayoshi-san if I could buy two of his books (one was a collection of people reading), to which he obliged by adding it to my tab; he even signed and dated them!  This truly was the highlight of my trip. 

Unfortunately, we couldn’t stay too long as we didn’t want a repeat of our last late-night Kyoto experience (aka we didn’t want to buy another Uber). The six of us bid Benton farewell and hopped back on the train with plenty of time to get to our Osaka ryokan…and pack for our final leg of the journey.

Of course, that wasn’t entirely the case, as we ended up walking down Dotonbori one last time to book a karaoke room, which we didn’t leave until nearly 3 AM. I just had to sing “Defying Gravity” while in Japan.

That Sunday, the group would split up for the rest of the trip. James, Claire, and Jimmy were set to go three hours away to Imabari, where James’s extended family resides. A quiet time with locals in a sleepy prefecture (the towel capital of Japan, as it were) was mighty appealing (and the invitation was indeed open), but the rest of us decided that it would be better to keep exploring Tokyo. In any case, there was more that I needed to do…and buy. 

For the Shinkansen ride (where my lost ticket was promptly recovered by rail staff in Osaka, who called ahead to Tokyo to let me through the gate), I dressed quite simply: a Breton stripe tee, jeans, and my practical fishing vest; a beret helped make the look a bit more “fun”. Three hours later, and we were back in the thick of it! Our accommodations this time were a rented house, which was probably the nicest part of the trip. We all finally had our own rooms and more than one toilet; it was also very close to the train station (so was our Osaka ryokan, but the initial Tokyo Airbnb was far). 

Bristol, Serhan, and I decided to take it extremely easy, with our only outing that day being a short excursion to Akihabara, the otaku neighborhood that I also didn’t see the last time I was there. This nerdy trio spent nearly the entire time at Radio Keikan, which housed eight stories of fandom stores. If you were in the market for statues, figures, or gunpla, this was the place (and you’ve probably heard about it already). Surprisingly, I couldn’t find anything from my favorite anime (Death Note and Code Geass), but I did walk out with a collection of Tomica cars and random gashapons, the latter of which would continue to grow as I neared the end of my trip. 

We treated ourselves to a wagyu burger before retreating back to the house for another bout of kombini treats (waffle ice cream sandwiches and Strong Zeros) while we watched not anime, but LOVE DEATH + ROBOTS. A chill night is an underrated move, even on vacation!

Initially, Serhan and I planned to spend the next day at a few Tokyo art museums until we realized our folly: museums are typically closed on Mondays. I already opted to dress quite “artsy”  and cute for the day, pairing a tie (the only time I wore one the entire trip) with a plaid workshirt, blazer, big brown shorts, and navy blazer (which at this point, had really gotten a workout). It was the first schoolboy fit of 2026, and I’m happy that it was worn in Japan. And so, left to our own devices, Serhan and I decided to retrace our steps in Tokyo and shop. 

Our first stop was back in Ginza, where we stepped into the big Kyobunkwan that featured a tall tapestry promoting the 50th anniversary of Popeye Magazine; I guess Beams and this storied fashion mag are the same age! We obtained our copies (which came with a commemorative sticker), as well as a few back issues of Popeye: two on girlfriend-style/date ideas and one on “Band Style”. I also got a Brutus mag about listening rooms (I’m so vinyl-pilled, it’s crazy). After stopping into Ships one more time (no Moonstars, unfortunately), we pressed on to Shinjuku, where we stocked up at Seikado (the truly epic stationery store), Kinokuniya (for last-minute books; I ended up buying a separate tote bag to better hold my mags), and ultimately Komehyo Men’s, where I ended up finding a pair of second-hand black Avignons to complete my new Paraboot collection. The pre-owned, tax-free price (and perfect fit) made the purchase a no-brainer. 

Komehyo transitioned us quite nicely to our evening in Koenji, where Serhan and I met up with Kousuke, who now works at Kamakura as a designer and was wearing two of their new wears: an Oxford cloth band collar workshirt and 60s style jeans, whose slim-straight hem hovered ever so slightly over some well-loved C&J pennys. Kousuke was one of the few people who reached out to me when I visited in 2019 and took the time to show me around this iconic, vintage menswear-focused neighborhood. It made me quite happy to run it back and catch up! We spent quite a bit of time going through various vintage stores (more on that below) before Kotaro (another Kamakura staffer I met last time) showed up for dinner. He was dripped out in Kamakura, notably their own take on the 30s USN chambray with the most delightfully short spearpoint collar. As buying a proper new chambray was on the list (to “replace” my stained Pennys and my 70s number with oversized buttons and a collar band), I inquired about it; he told me it was only available online, much to my chagrin (it’s also currently out of stock).

The dinner was incredibly pleasant and utterly fascinating! We talked at length about our menswear careers (mine was rather short), which later led to the interesting conversation about of how much “Americana” (both in style and cuture) has come full circle, from being something refined by Japan (as detailed in Ametora by W. David Marx) to now, with Americans now looking back at Japan for how to do it right and even better, whether its through styling or manfucturing practitces. Kotaro maintained that Japan’s strong POV, at least in classic menswear, is due to its seldom straying far from the 60s’ style purview, even when considering all the subgenres within that era. This led to the Kamakura boys offering a teaser on what they’ve got cookin’ in the upcoming seasons, which I unfortunately can’t share apart from the fact that it is decidedly and delightfully mid-60s. 

To save Serhan and Bristol (who has certainly learned more about menswear on this trip than she ever cared for) from boredom, we quickly opened the conversation to more fun topics, like the cultural differences between Japan and the States, both about clothing itself (“America is so casual!”) and in social circles/dating, the latter being the most fun to dissect (younger people do their cheers at a lower elevation to their elders). Another tidbit was our discussion of the plethora of themed bars and cafes in Japan. Kotaro and Kousuke were a little surprised that we had establishments that served only coffee and alcohol, with no theme or even any food to make it interesting. It’s not that this doesn’t entirely exist in Japan, but most places are indeed izakayas (you drink with food), fully fledged cafes with sandwiches and sweet treats, or tiny five-seater dives where the main intention is indeed to just get drunk. 

As Kousuke and Kotaro had work the next day (the latter having an early flight to Paris for a trunk show), we shared a quick cig before parting ways. Even though I didn’t get to do anything artsy that day, I was glad I wore my whimsical fit to hang out with the menswear guys; it served to “make up” for the wet aloha-fatigue ensemble Benton had to encounter me in.

Bristol, Serhan, and I made sure to close out the night with yet another waffle-ice cream sandwich once we arrived at our final station. 

Tuesday was Serhan’s final day (he was going home one day earlier for some reason), and so we made sure to actually get to a Tokyo art museum; Bristol, on the other hand, spent the day doing her own thing. He and I settled on the Tokyo Modern Art Museum, where the highlights were a retrospective of silver-halide photographer Higashi Sugimoto and a show of modern painter Saburō Hasegawa. Both were stunning exhibitions and certainly inspiring for me to get back into creative pursuits. A short soba lunch later, and Serhan hopped on the Keisan Sky Access line (the correct one) and flew back to LA. 

Now that I was fully alone, I decided to backtrack yet again, doing a slow trek through Harajuku in order to finally pay a visit to Bryceland’s, return to Beams for the engineer jacket, and see anything else interesting on the way. You can scroll down later for the full photo diary and captions!

Because Imabari pals weren’t going to be back until late that evening for a final Tokyo drink, I took it upon myself to at last, get some live jazz. Following a DM-sent recommendation from my friend Cristian, I went to Jazz SPOT Intro, which was fully packed at 7 PM despite it being a “casual jam” night. This ended up being the right choice, as I felt I truly got to see local talent, whether they were veterans just looking to have fun or newbies getting some stage experience. Every 15-20 minutes, a new musician walked in to join the hodgepodge ensemble, either taking the communal instrument on stage or bringing their own. The energy was electric, with the crowd being excitedly supportive at every feature; we were treated to piano cadenzas, trumpet runs, drum solos, and even a scatting singer. It was completely worth the cover charge. I ended up ordering a total of three drinks (including the one that came with the cover) and, not wanting to repeat my regret with Phoe~be, I bought a merch tee. 

I’d like to say that was how I ended my last night in Tokyo, but that would be wrong. By 9 PM, the whole group was free, so I met them at a rather sad cyberpunk/apocalypse-themed bar that served fully vegan food and cocktails in blood bags. The only other people in the bar were two groups of quiet tourists. We soon left and decided to actually end our trip at the infamous Golden Gai and its string of tourist-friendly stall-bars (no cover charge if you’re not Japanese!). Unfortunately, the issues that plagued our initial Tokyo night arose again; most bars were completely full (of Americans, no less), and the leftovers simply didn’t have room for our group of five.  

Some of them got a quick drink at a metal bar, but we finally all got to sit together in a cramped upstairs bar helmed by one of the friendliest bartenders I had ever met. I declined their offer of Habushu (I was three cocktails in and tired), though I did drink a beer. Our group eventually moved to another bar that purported to have been visited by Bad Bunny. We were immediately greeted by a group of Italian tourists who, at the bartender’s insistence, had hilariously taken over the playlist and were switching between American and Italian pop from all decades— all while exuberant, jump-filled singing. It was hard not to join in, though we toned it down once the bartender from downstairs asked us to be a bit softer. 

By this point, it was well past the last train (Tokyo bars keep going till 4 AM, I believe), and so we took one last Uber ride to the rental house, where I promptly found myself packing. This is where my mom’s counsel came in clutch. The huge nylon duffel she gave me, which I kept folded in my carry-on, now came out, ready to hold all my dirty laundry and random soft accouterments (plushies and hats). My hard case was now ready to hold the more important things, like my new-to-me shoes and the ill-advised (but totally worth it) collection of art books, magazines, and vinyl. 

I had actually scheduled myself a later flight (6 PM), which meant that I still had a decent half-day left. And so, with my luggage secured in one of the many lockers at Skytree Station, I went to Ueno park for a quick jaunt at the Tokyo Met. I didn’t expect that you had to pay for each exhibition separately, but thanks to an alluring line of elderly art fans, I opted to go to the Andrew Wyeth retrospective. I hadn’t seen too much of his work before, but I found myself enamored with his steadfast style. The exhibition showcased his obsession with documenting Olson house as well as his use of framing and boundaries; there was something photograph-adjacent about the paintings on display, which tickled my fancy. I also found myself taken with the quiet excitement from my fellow attendees; you could really tell that they loved art. The space was surprisingly full for a random Tuesday, though I assume most of these people were retired. Again, I felt right at home with my fellow oldies in practical fishing vests. 

By the time I was done with the Tokyo Watercolor Exhibition next door (I love local artists!), I was set to head back, though I did take a moment to enjoy a sando and onigiri in Ueno Park. This would have been my last meal in Japan…if I hadn’t taken it upon myself to also order a plate of curry at Narita airport, which was quite rejuvenating (if not a little pricey, as it was the airport), after a long, standing train ride on the Keisei Sky Access line. 

With a full belly and my big duffle fully checked in, I was ready to go home to my maximalist apartment, a closet full of full cut suits, and the half-finished compositions for the rapidly approaching Cosmus 2 party.

But hey, hold on, that’s not the end of this blog post! I still need to properly talk about menswear, don’t I? 

The Menswear Part

As much as this trip was about having fun with friends and doing things in Japan that I didn’t get to do much of the last time (going out and drinking), menswear obviously played a big part in this trip. Any time not spent on a tourist or cultural excursion was spent looking at—and buying—clothes. Serhan and James, also being menswear heads, did join for a few side quests and even made a few purchases themselves, namely at one particular shop I’ll talk about in a moment. It was indeed quite nice to have some company, as I was very much alone when I did this back in 2019.  

But before I go into the stores I visited, I do want to share some general reflections on the menswear I encountered. This trip was indeed special for many reasons (traveling with friends is fun!), but one unique aspect was that it gave me the opportunity to compare this experience with my initial visit back in 2019. Seven years is quite a long time, and things have certainly changed…and remained familiar. 

It goes without saying that Japan remains unmatched. The taste level is high, and expression is intentional, all of which exudes a sense of passion and authenticity for the spirit of clothing. As a result, pretty much every store you can visit, be it a specialized atelier or a secondhand shop, is indeed quite good, with each product a great representation of some aspect of classic menswear.  As I’ve noted previously, this is even true in their “men’s warehouse” and “mall-adjacent” brands, with various budget suits, shirts, and ties having Ivy-friendly qualities. This means that even the offerings at second-hand stores (which I will talk about in a moment) are all good; there is not much slop to be found. 

There is also a passion for codification, which has resulted in Japan’s famous menagerie of ateliers, each with a particular POV. Be it suiting, workwear, gorp (outdoor style), or anything in between (and I certainly mean in-between, as many stores combine elements of each), you can find something that fits your jam. If you ever find yourself in Japan, I suggest you hit up as many as possible, because they are a source of great inspiration and specialized products that other stores may not have, at least when it comes to specifics (collabs or private-label garments). New York and LA do have similar qualities (especially the latter in the last five years), but not to the same extent as in Japan. 

That said, I found that most of these stores carried similar items, likely due to the menswear-streetwear mix that has emerged over the past few years. Each store has various camp collar shirts, leather shoes (everyone has Paraboots, btw), sack-inspired jackets, and various types of big pants (dress trousers, chinos, cargos). A store’s POV mainly comes through in merchandising and staff style. For example, Ships had their shopkeepers in full suits, rolling OCBDs (or point collars), repp ties (if they actually were in a tie), and dainty loafers or sleek fisherman sandals. Loftman, a gorp-meets-fashion store, had its salespeople wear untucked camp shirts, pleated nylon cargos, and loafers in either a chunky Paraboot or a Keems Mary Jane. Yes, each store does indeed have a specialized catalog through collaborations or private-label products, but I still feel a Vague Similarity, one that certainly persists after I’ve visited quite a few stores, more so than I ever did the last time (though it goes without saying that I obviously didn’t visit anything too high-fashion). That feeling may just be a result of the culture of the menswear-mix. 

While this Vague spirit of menswear has unified a bit of the overall fashion landscape (not just in Japan but around the world), I also found that it has made everything a bit more dressed down.  Don’t get me wrong, Japan is still very stylish, but the expression is different now. I recall that in 2019, menswear shopkeepers had a more fully tailored, preppy (or #menswear) attitude, whereas now outfits are certainly more casual (while still dressy). Camp shirts, big pants, and chunky shoes, captured in various POVs, abound— this wasn’t just on the shopkeepers but on the street as well. I found that mufflers (scarves) and bandanas (or even necklaces) replaced full neckties when I was out and about, though at DisneySea, I did find the youth wearing them in a more TikTok/Y2K (??) manner. On the pod, Spencer called this the “Zoomer fashion student” core, and I’d have to agree! 

The clearest example of the menswear shift was seen during my visit to Beams+ in Harajuku.  In my previous post, everything was quite preppy, with Fujii and Naoki donning blazers, the latter even wearing a tie and grey trousers. This time, 70s outdoor/gorp attitude (along with a bit of grunge or band style) was the underlying theme, with nylon shirts and shorts (as well as anoraks) paired with bucket hats and caps. Still very good and certainly inspirational (having a similar flavor in my casual attire has helped me enjoy it more), but markedly different from when I visited before; oh, how times change! 

Of course, there were still pockets of classic style, mainly worn by older gentlemen, again, both in the stores and on the street. Naturally, it all had that Ivy-meets-Italian flavor that was certainly more restrained (aka trad) compared to the maximalist looks you see guys do in LA or New York. Some were indeed salarymen, which makes sense as corporate attire is quite traditional (I  should also note that I didn’t see anything in the way of the corpo-vests and gilets that are common in the States). I also enjoyed seeing the attire worn by the elderly, who made up most of my company at the touristy/cultural places I visited. Nearly every man was in a jacket and a full-brimmed hat, whether it was a straw fedora or a bucket hat, the latter with the front flipped down, and the back flipped up, evoking a fedora or Tyrolean). I also saw a copious amount of fishing/utility vests on the street, which adds even more to the sporty-prep attitude that characterizes summer menswear in Japan. Some of those old dudes in fishing vests and hats even had a camera strapped to their person, which certainly made me feel a sense of camaraderie. 

Now it’s time for the stores. 

One funny and big thing on this trip was actually being able to try on French darlings Paraboot and JM Weston, simply because Japan has those shops. At most, LA has one or two stores that stock the former, but none carry a size below 40, and, as I wrote before, I needed to go smaller! And so, I promptly got sized at the Ginza flagship store on my first full day, and they sent me to the location in the Ginza Six mall to obtain my beloved size 39 Michaels in dark brown. What made this experience even funnier was seeing just how many Japanese haberdasheries did indeed stock some form of Paraboot. It honestly must have been all of them, whether it was Ships or Loftman. And yes,  I finally tried on some JM Weston 180 pennies and found I was a 6D; I didn’t cop them because I already had the LHS in color 8, though a sleek, French black penny does look mighty fine. 

Of course, this trip wasn’t just about French shoes; they were the only mandatory buy on this vacation.  Since my closet has largely matured, I honestly didn’t have much of a must-see list for this trip. I primarily used my existing list, supplemented it with Simon’s excellent guide, and mainly visited stores when my travels happened to take me there. Because I had a very loose itinerary and never really knew how much time I’d actually have in each neighborhood, I decided against messaging anyone that I was visiting for fear that I would be late or worse, have to cancel a visit. As such, I didn’t get a chance to visit Yamamoto-san of Tailor Caid (who I was told was very busy considering his recent Armoury trunk show) or even Moto at Sarto Ginza. That being said, I still got to visit quite a handful of great stores, some old and others new. 

Before I summarize them, here’s a quick list of where I went: 

• Osaka
  • Ships 
  • Hinoya Denim
  • Beams+
• Kyoto 
  • 2nd Street 
  • Loftman 
  • Danibaru (didn’t get to go to Isetan)
• Tokyo
  • Harajuku
    • Hummingbirds’hill
    • Full Count
    • Indian Motorcycle 
    • Beams+
    • Bryceland’s
    • The Real McCoy’s
  • Ginza
    • Ships
    • Kamakura
    • Kapital 
  • Shinjuku
    • Komehyo Mens (still goated)
    • Muji 
  • Koenji
    • Whistler
    • Safari (goated) 

As you can see above, the biggest difference with this strip was just how much more I was actually able to visit, be it in Tokyo (where most of the stores were), as well as Osaka and Kyoto. 

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Overall, Japan is notable for its plethora of specialty shops, each with a particular POV and resulting product curation. Admittedly, I did feel a bit of “sameness” the more I visited (particularly among the workwear/denim stores or even the vintage/second-hand shops), but that just means you need to visit as much as you can to find what makes each one special. 

For example, Indian Motorcycle obviously stocked jeans and leather jackets, but I particularly enjoyed their selection of rayon shirts and graphic tees, the latter of which I ended up buying (one with Tintin on a horse). A similar thing happened with The Flat Head, which created rather charming vintage-style camping tees. There was also Hummingbirds’hill and their selection of denim chore-blazers (styled with bandanas) and coats, which I found more interesting than the typical Type 1-3 denim jackets that are found all around Japan menswear, just varying in terms of fit, material, and quality of make. 

Speaking of denim, I was finally able to go to Hinoya (in Osaka). I wasn’t in the mood to buy jeans, as my 3Sixteen relaxed cuts (and my USN dunagrees) are holding up quite nicely, but it was cool to finally be surrounded by Japanese denim, all in various cuts ranging from straight leg workwear types and bootcuts (attempted by James, but it was too slim for his taste) to lowrise, baggy fit carpenter-style models that are popular among the youth on TikTok. I was particularly taken with their non-denim pants, such as khaki chinos (I wanted to replace my current true vintage ones with a pair long enough to cuff) and camo fatigues (I wanted tiger-stripe shorts) from Buzz Rickson’s and The Real McCoy’s. Unfortunately, I didn’t like either of the options as the rise just wasn’t high enough. I was also intrigued by their Sun Surf alohas (the best in the game, thanks to their pattern and 40s-style sport collar) as well as their chambrays, but the only one with a nice 30-style spearpoint collar was short-sleeve. 

I later tried on a USN chambray at The Real McCoys proper back in Harajuku, but they didn’t have a plain one in my size (15), and I wasn’t about to pay nearly $250 for the stenciled pocket. Of course, there was a lot of other great stuff in that damn store (which housed a mini-airplane hangar in its underground space): duffle coats, aviation vests, peacoats, chore coats of all kinds, and more. The prices were extremely high but largely worth it for their level of detail. Unfortunately, I wasn’t allowed to take more than one photo, but I’m glad I was able to finally see the store in person. It truly is an incredible case study in garment design and styling; everywhere I looked, there was a maximalist outfit composed of various elements from vintage milsurp and workwear. 

Spencer, buddy, you would love it here.

An obvious standout was Kapital (the small one in Ginza), a brand I’ve really come to admire as I’ve grown in my appreciation of casual, artisanal clothing. It was amazing to finally see their garms in person, including their famous 101J style jacket in the century denim (which I tried on but alas, I wasn’t allowed to take pictures). I nearly bought a bandana (I have the Thunderbird one), but stopped myself, thinking I didn’t need more. Ironically, I ended up buying plain linen-cotton neck scarves (and one navy polka dot) from Muji when I returned to Tokyo near the end of the trip; as a necktie fan, I simply prefer longer neckwear (no shade to my existing bandanas). It was actually Jimmy who purchased something from Kapital, a “Kookie” graphic hoodie. He had no prior knowledge of the brand or why its pieces are so rarefied— he just liked the art and bought it! 

One of my favorite store visits was Loftman (I went to the one Kyoto in the big market street), a gorpy, outdoors-focused multi-brand store that seemed to play with the idea of utility and fashion. I found both delicate rayon camp shirts and practical nylon workshirts, mixed in with sportcoat takes big pant varieties (including cargos and patchwork styles), anoraks (special North Face collabs), and brimmed headwear (caps and buckets). I was particularly taken by a U-closure waistcoat made by Gorsch, which, thanks to its antiquarian and minimalist design, felt like something you’d see worn by Tony Sylvester (it’s also similar to designs by Anatomica and Haversack). Loftman also stocked leather footwear from Alden, Danner, and Paraboot (including a handful of special makes), as well as more camping-friendly shoes from Salomon and Keems. 

I really enjoyed the curation and POV at Loftman, as I find it, and the particular vibe to casual menswear it purports to be quite classic menswear-friendly, thanks to its use of big proportions and intricate styling. After all, I do indeed have a soft spot for such looks (and have softly dipped my toe on occasion), as I find the aesthetic the other side of the appreciation-coin that I have for slouchy, designer-y suiting (think Evan Kinori and Sillage). This vibe also feels a bit more “classic” and easygoing than the hypebeast-esque attitude I find pervasive in American menswear at the moment. 

In terms of tailoring, I also made sure to visit Ships, United Arrows, Tomorrowland, and Beams Ginza (regular version), which, as classic menswear-focused haberdasheries, were certainly a highlight of this trip. Each of the stores had similar offerings, with exceptional 3-roll-2 and DB closure suiting (trousers are still mid-rise and tapered) cut from cloth by our menswear-favorite mills (Marling & Evans, Fox Bros), as well as truly beautiful ties in Ethan-friendly foulards, stripes, and geometrics. Compared to overpriced and often ugly Stateside offerings, there was quite a lot of value in these Japanese menswear stores, particularly in their ties. Some were indeed quite luxurious at appropriate prices (Tomorrowland stocked private-label sevenfold ties in the $300+ range), but at $100-$150, the basic ties that again, have tasteful patterns, are a very good buy. I was allured by a particularly handsome brown paisley tie, as well as a few checked, summer-ready sportcoats ($500-$1K? Yowza!), though I passed on all of it when I reminded myself of my already large sartorial arsenal awaiting me at home. 

Honestly, I think I was mainly tempted because I’m too aware that I don’t have my full wardrobe when I’m on vacation. I miss my ties and full suits too much! 

Of course, I had to make a return to the few shops I visited last time, just to see how much had changed…and what I wanted to buy, now that I’m in an older stage of life (and career).  One of which was Bryceland’s, an obvious choice given how much of my style has been inspired by Ethan and Kenji’s take on rugged Americana-meets-tailoring, and how I now own a handful of pieces from the brand!

Unfortunately, Ethan and Ryutaro weren’t in (Ethan was in HK this time around), but I was helped by Shota, who recognized me from my small cameo in the Permanent Style magazine (which Bryceland’s stocks). He was wearing the cream rayon sport shirt and their flared denim, both well-loved and quite worn; the latter had an excellent raw hem that rested nicely on the brand’s iconic thunderbird slippers. Shota showed me around the incredibly photogenic store (the numerous windows certainly help) and helped me try on a few pieces, namely the fun anorak, schoolboy jacket (their moleskin chore blazer), and their chambray workshirt offering (I told ya I was in the market).

I ultimately passed on the chambray because they were out of my size (medium) in the 100% cotton version, and I didn’t want the linen-cotton blend (too soft and wouldn’t age the same way). They were also out of the frog camo cargos, only having sizes 30 and 36 in the back—the curse of being a similar size to those in Japan! There were also a few other items I had seen on Bryceland’s IG/webstore, like the 101J-style “Cash Jackets” in striking colors and patterns (red-and-indigo check was the most intriguing), but they were only available in Hong Kong. 

The visit wasn’t entirely unfruitful, however. I was delighted to learn that Shota was quite the otaku and Star Wars fan. We talked about SH Figuarts and Black Series figures (he prefers collecting vintage Kenner) as well as our mutual love of Disneyland. Shota laughed quite a bit when I showed him my Porco Rosso cosplay, which was prepped to make its annual appearance at Anime Expo 2026. There needs to be more menswear otakus!

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Kamakura Shirts was also on the list, though mainly at the behest of Serhan and James, as they were looking to refresh their shirt wardrobe; the former is still quite early in his menswear journey, and he was looking forward to finally getting an OCBD with the right roll!

This steadfast shirt brand has certainly come a long way since I had previously visited Japan and the NYC store. In those 5-6 years, Kamakura has expanded its offerings to include not just tailoring, but also chore coats and camp collar/sport shirts (a nice option that wasn’t just business wear). However, the real welcome change has been the expansion of the Vintage Ivy collection. In the past, the trad-beloved subline was only available in alpha sizing, as a pop-over style, and in a small assortment of colors. As a result, I never got one for myself, opting originally for a fused-collar OCBD from the NYC store back in 2018, which I later swapped for a regular fit (still a bit slim), soft-collar uni stripe when I was in Japan; they served me well until I outgrew them and passed them to MJ. 

Now, thanks to the efforts of my aforementioned friend Kotaro, Kamakura has Vintage Ivy shirts in proper neck sizing and across nearly all of their shirting fabrics. In other words, you can get all manner of uni and reverse stripes in this iconic style, which is exactly what James and Serhan did, no doubt bolstered by the lower (and tax-free) prices of shopping in Hapan. As a hardline enjoyer of vintage Brooks (and my self-imposed requirement to own big, blousy shirts), I didn’t buy any Kamakura myself (even though I still don’t own a proper white OCBD). [Kotaro later made sure to tell me that Vintage Ivy’s American fit is more of my speed, but it’s only available online.] 

Even though I didn’t cop anything, I was far from bored while Serhan and James shopped. I ended up having a pleasant chat with Sa Yto, a Kamakura Ginza shopkeeper, who was probably the most immaculately dressed person I saw on this entire trip. This gent was dripped out in a club-collar shirt, 50s swing tie, and a custom 30s-style cream linen belt-back suit, which he ordered from Four Buttons. Yet again, I found myself missing my closet back in the States! 

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Beams+, which, after Ships, was probably my favorite shop the entire trip, simply due to its full selection of casual and [slightly] formal garms. One of their staff even compared their offering to J. Crew, but it’s clear that Beams+ is miles ahead due to its tasteful designs (both as a repro and interpretations) and its intricate, maximalist styling. 

I’ve always been a fan of the Beams+ aesthetic, being the pinnacle of Amekaji/rugged ivy-prep styling, but for some reason, I was really feeling it when I stopped in. Perhaps this is because while my fully tailored look is locked into facets of Apparel Arts, my casual side (especially the preppier angle) is still quite malleable. There’s also the fact that most of the new menswear generation take after, or are similar to, the Beams+ look; Geoff Haggray is a great example of this! Or maybe this is because I had to be casual during this trip, and the Beams+ store felt more at home with what I already brought with me (as Ships only made me sad that I didn’t have my beloved brown suits, striped shirts, and foulard ties).  In any case, I felt more appreciative and enamored with the store during this year’s visit!

I actually visited the Tokyo location twice (once during each Tokyo leg) and even stopped into their location in Osaka when I was in town. Each store was quite different! The Harajuku location is on the smaller side and is filled to the brim with clothes; jackets were even hanging from the ceiling! While the house goods are nice (Madras was the star of the season, apparently), the strength in the Harajuku store lies in their collaborations. This store was where you could get their special Sperry make-ups, like the green deck shoe with the black sole (the white one was tempting, especially after I had nearly ruined my Wakouwas while trekking up Inari), as well as various EG jackets. 

The best one was a creation made for Beams+’s 50th anniversary: a jungle jacket-esque radio jacket with even more pockets than the original ERDL one and done up in various vibrant shades of milspec rip-stop. While the brown or black would have been the most versatile, especially for Star Wars or Nerf-related activities, I was most intrigued by the red one, as it felt decidedly outdoorsy. After much deliberation, even after returning to Harajuku on the second Tokyo leg of my trip, I decided to pass. I typically wear tailoring, as you know, but when I don’t, I usually just wear one of my beloved leather jackets. 

Osaka’s was larger, with a more open-plan layout, and showcased a bit more tailoring (Newport blazer!) in addition to their usual fare of casual pieces. I particularly liked their patterned rayon shirts, which were offered in multiple colorways and even came with matching scarves, as well as their 100% cotton 50s-style knit tees. The latter was very tempting (I even tried it on), but I passed because I had already spent too much money…and because I just don’t wear tee shirts (even knit ones) as much as a proper button up. Fujio, the Osaka shop manager (who previously was a shopkeeper in Harajuku back in 2019), understood completely. 

That’s not to say that I didn’t buy anything from Beams+. In 2019, I walked out with a multistripe tee. This time I got a bit more: a madras sport cap (with dimensions nearly similar to a Quaker Marine longbill) and the lightwash variation of their engineer jacket (basically a sport vest). The former is probably my new favorite cap, thanks to its more dramatic dimensions; the shorter crown and longer bill just make it more Ethan-friendly. [I will likely wear it more than just to the gym, which is where most of my dad caps serve.] The jacket is a quirky, sporty alternative to a standard chore coat that also feels a bit more Ethan-friendly thanks to its cropped fit, echoing my preferred proportions for blousons. It goes without saying that I heavily enjoyed the sportvest style, and so grabbing it was a no-brainer.  In fact, Serhan bought one as well, though his is the darker wash, which I honestly like a bit more (but we both got the last stock available). 

By the way, Kitano, if you’re reading this, I may need you to send me that damn radio jacket. (Or don’t…I’m pretty much broke after this trip.)

I would be remiss if I didn’t spend some final moments talking about the vintage experience in Japan this time around. 

In broad strokes, second-hand selections are quite good, but I still found myself a bit let down. I recall that in 2019, the Shibuya 2nd Street stocked Alden shoes and jackets from Beams and Ships. This time, it was mainly Euro/American brands, with a huge general helping of Y2K garms. I couldn’t find anything Japanese-Americana in Tokyo! It took a visit to a 2nd Street in Kyoto for me to find some United Arrows and Beams; it was here that I found and bought a SunSurf aloha for around $40. I later ended up getting a Sukajan-style rayon sportshirt from Toyo for the same price at a Koenji location. This is the kind of stuff that I was looking for, not random Polo RL chinos!  

Obviously, curated vintage stores in Koenji are still worth visiting, whether or not you’re in the market. I checked out Whistler, who remains the king of vintage, with Kouske from Kamakura shirts, basically repeating our initial meeting from 2019. Whistler’s first floor retains its iconically massive leather shoe collection, with Aldens, Crocketts, and Paraboots (Klemans too!) available at lightly affordable prices (if your feet fit into them). There’s also a giant selection of ivy-style sportcoats, though most are indeed quite small (no madras for me). The second floor has more workwear/milsurp (chambray military shorts and white cotton chore-blazers were intriguing), as well as general 70s-90s fare. I also enjoyed some of the other curated vintage stores, such as Belphegol, which carried some rather niche pieces like 50s-60s fishing jackets (yes, with sleeves), rayon blousons, deadstock spearpoints, and the occasional batik jacket.  

But while rarities and grails can still be found, trends do still prevail, with most other vintage or second-hand shops being primarily focused on 80s-Y2K casual wear, primarily jeans, graphic tees, and less-than-stellar button-ups. In fact, most of the “new” stores I went to in Koenji (and even in Harajuku, Osaka, and Kyoto) focused heavily on imported brands, be they American (RL or Carhartt) or Euro/Western designers. Again, there is good to be found (camo, chore coats, or Barbour-esque jackets are cool!), but I ultimately felt these stores weren’t much different from any vintage store or flea vendor in LA. Maybe this is just a result of the world becoming smaller due to social media and TikTok, to the point where second-hand offerings are just…the same. Maybe I’m just too picky and niche at this point in my menswear journey.

That being said, I still had some great experiences. One was at Komehyo Mens in Shinjuku, which had a whole floor dedicated to “business” (classic menswear) attire! DBs and pinstripe suits from United Arrows, Ships, and Caraceni, and more filled the racks, while shelves held footwear from J.M. Weston, Alden, and Paraboot. My tiny feet came in clutch here, as I walked out with barely-worn black Avignons for under $250! Unfortunately, I wasn’t small enough for the jackets and suits, though it goes without saying that my closet is full up in that department.

I was also quite giddy to finally go into Safari. I can’t recall exactly which one I went to (there are like six in Koenji, but it was the one on the ground floor with all l of the tailoring. I was immediately blown away by the stock! There wasn’t just Dalcuore and Ring Jacket but a handful of vintage ivy as well as custom tailoring; one bespoke piece in particular was a belt-back with pleated pockets (as expected, most of it was too small). Kousuke also took us to the Safari store on a different floor, which offered tailoring and a few more menswear-adjacent brands. It was here that I was able to finally see (and try on) garms from Anatomica and Haversack, both of which had extremely favorable prices. We were in a small rush (dinner with Kotaro was calling!), but I’m certain that if I had more time, I would have walked away with something fun.

It seems that my goal for buying on this trip, whether it was a clothing purchase or a souvenir, was to come home with something intriguing— something special. I wasn’t here to get basics or any ‘ol items I can find in America (whether in person or on eBay). That didn’t mean I was after anything radical or experiential; whatever it happened to be, I still needed to feel familiar and be a natural extension of or addition to my existing style. In that way, my purchases echoed my aim for the vacation as a whole: to experience things that were particular to Japan, but that still felt in line with who I am and what I like to do. 

And now, looking over everything we did and what I actually purchased, both in terms of clothes and souvenirs, I think I accomplished that! And to be honest, I bought more than I initially expected (again, the only confirmed purchase was Paraboots), but thankfully, I brought along a duffle to easily check everything in on the way back.  Here’s what I actually took home: 

• Beams+: Madras sport cap and lightwash Engineer jacket
• Paraboot (Ginza Six): brown Michaels (Ginza Six) 
• Second Hand: second-hand black Avignons (Komehyo), Sun Surf aloha (2nd Street Kyoto)
• Muji: various neck scarves
• Indian Motorcycle: Tintin Tee
• Tower Records:  “Tower Classical” tee, branded slip mat, stickers, and vinyl (Masayoshi Takanaka’s “Jolly Jive”, “The Amazing Shoichi Yui”, and “John Williams with Saito Kinen Orchestra”)
• Assorted Things:
  • “Jazz Intro Club” tee
  • Hakuchikudo denim hbt fan
  • Tomica cars, Disneysea plushies, random gatchas 
  • Magazines: Popeye, Genic (photography mag), and a classical music publication 
  • Various art books: Omi Kim’s “Osaka Romantics”, Takeshi Yumeji retrospective, and two books from Kai Fusayoshi himself
  • Postcards and art prints
  • Kinokuniya tote bag (my new favorite)

The only thing that I didn’t get a chance to buy (or even try on) was Moonstars, which I’ve always been a fan of but never actually copped (because I don’t wear sneakers all that often). Honestly, I only really considered finding them after that fateful Inari hike. Thankfully, my Wakouas are still here, but I entertained the possibility of replacing them mid-trip with one of the Vulcanized Rubber sneakers (the cream ones). I even considered making the jump to buying a gorpy, velcro sneaker-loafer for future trips (LHS did me fine, but I could go even more comfy), but alas, I couldn’t find a stockist/store for them or the regular sneakers. I also wasn’t about to go an hour outside of Tokyo just to go to the Moonstar flagship. Yes, I know that the US stocks a fair bit of Moonstars (Hightide LA is one option), but I wanted that Japan (tax-free) pricing!

Overall, this really was the best trip I’ve ever been on.  It’s not that I’ve ever had a bad trip, but this jaunt in Japan represented everything I wanted out of a trip as a proper adult: tasty drinks, delicious eats, wonderful company, and, of course, great clothes. I’m sure that there are plenty more on the horizon, but this was the first time I’ve ever felt this much agency and freedom. Some of that is indeed due to my current stage of life and the fact that I was with friends rather than family, but much of it has to do with the destination. Japan simply had something for each side of who I am, from the clothing obsessive and the pretentious hipster to the dumbass nerd who likes collecting cars and action figures. 

I’m sure this is an oft-repeated, eye-roll-inducing statement, especially among aging Millennials, but I could definitely see myself coming back to Japan more often— especially if I can come with friends. Perhaps this LA native yearns for walkable neighborhoods and a proper public transit system (to be clear, ours is fine, provided that you stay inside one of LA County’s eighty-odd cities), but it really is about the cute cafes and great, affordable food. All the great clothing stores (and tailors) certainly help too. In any case, I don’t think I need seven years between visits. There’s so much more I have yet to see, from even more vinyl and jazz bars to the various niche menswear stores, both modern and vintage/second-hand.

In any case, I still need to get my Moonstars in person!

Now enjoy the plethora of images I captured on this trip, from the moody black-and-white snaps taken with my trusty 6D to various fit pics and random fodder I took with my phone.

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The Podcast is produced by MJ.

Always a pleasure,

Ethan 

Big thank you to our top-tier Patrons (the SaDCast Fanatics), Philip, Shane, Henrik, and Mason.